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I ran your recipe through beersmith just to get a ballpark idea on OG, IBU, and color. If you lower the Crystal 40 to 2oz, and raise the 2 Row to 4.5#, it looks pretty good, and has an OG of 1.062 at 65% efficiency. As for the hops, Warrior is a good for the bittering addition. And the other...

First, I'll suggest not using Maris Otter and instead using plain 2 row. Next, I'd say strike the crystal out of there completely. There are people who frown on using it at all, and you have enough for a 5 gallon batch in there... it will end up too sweet, I think, which is what you said you...

Ok, I see what you're looking at. He said his values are listed under "Cove Communities" which is actually the third column.

I don't think I would do anything to it at all. Can you provide me with the OG from the first batch (5 gallons) and the second batch (6 gallons)?

Wicked smaht! :mug:

EVERYONE likes their beer better than anyone else's. That's just the way it works. :D I'm only half joking about that. And I am pretty sure he is only half joking about his statement regarding his beer. He's probably proud of his efforts and feels like he is making progress. Like other people...

Unless I'm missing something it looks like he only has 0.3 PPM Chlorine. That's not too bad. I agree that it is DEFINITELY the correct practice to eliminate it, though! Looking at the rest of the water report, I don't see Calcium or Magnesium listed, but nothing looks like it would cause any...

Why scratch the metal at all? Just get yourself one of those white plastic mash paddles and make the markings on it instead. Pour a gallon into the kettle, stick the mash paddle in, mark it, our another gallon in, mark it again, and so on. Just be aware the markings would only work for that...

How cold is it outside where you are? I would consider sitting the fermentor outside for a few days if possible and just let all the stuff sink to the bottom naturally.

I ran the recipe through Beersmith and the color comes out at 21 SRM, which is brown. But like IslandLizard said above, I'd be concerned about the chocolate malt dominating the flavor WAY too much. Looking up some other recipes for Dunkelweizen, I found someone who used half of the chocolate...

True, but the quick little rinse is just in case there was something floating around in the water that got into the bottle. It's not really necessary.

People sure go through a lot of problems with their bottles! I soak my newly collected bottles in warm water and 1 cup of Arm & Hammer baking soda overnight and the labels float off by themselves. If I am in a hurry, it's only about an hour before you can peel them off manually with no problem...

Two questions to start: When are you taking the readings in the process? Are you compensating for temperature?

I have some very recent experience with this. Protein rests will rob you of head retention as well as body. There really isn't a good reason to do them most of the time with the well-modified grains home brewers use. I would suggest doing a beta glucan rest at 105*F, however. A Beta Glucan rest...

It can't hurt to leave it in there for a while. Take another reading after a week and see where it is at. If hasn't changed at all (still at 1.014) then it's done and you can bottle it. Here's a side note about the yeast: You said you used WLP001. According to the White Labs web site, that...

I have some questions about your process. Once I understand exactly what you are doing I can offer some advice. 1. What type of container are you using to do the mash? Do you use the same pot that you boil in? 2. How are you crushing (milling) your grain before you do the mash? Are you using a...

Yes, always cool the sample. I asked the same question once before and this is what Martin Brungard (the spreadsheet creator and lord of water science) told me: "Using any pH meter at a temperature much more than room temperature will speed its failure. Temperature compensation is a...

I'm getting the same results as Yooper. In fact, with your grain bill, 3.25 gallons distilled water, and the chem additions you used, I actually get a pH of 5.2! Of course, pH isn't the final word since you have some levels like Mg, Sulfate, and Chloride that are way too high. So I think...

Well, here's a good way to tell where it will end up. If you look up WLP400, you'll see they tell you the apparent attenuation for that yeast strain is 74-78%. This means the yeast will typically consume 74-78% of the sugars. So take your original gravity of 1.060 (60) and multiply it by...

AH-ha. Give it some more time and see what happens. Lager yeasts are typically slower to start and slower to finish, especially if you aren't pitching enough cells to begin with. I would recommend looking into creating yeast starters with the liquid yeast you buy rather than just dumping the...