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Thats how I sparge and can get 90% eff easily.

clear your PM's. :)

They are stainless.

Woo Pig Sooie!!!! I like that tap handle!

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f16/fs-st-stirplate-parts-152918/

Actually, its not a bad thing: the reduced head pressure on fermentation is quite good for your yeast. You'll have positive pressure once fermentation gets going, then a CO2 blanket afterwards to keep O2 out of the brew.

Bump Interesting trades considered

Underpitched as mentioned above. You need more yeasties You'll have a day or two of lag probably

whats your OG?

I know the feeling, I'm just north of you in Heber Springs.

Alright, I plan to brew an IPA this week. I used my water report and the EZ Water Adjustment site to start screwing with the numbers. My beer, an IPA has an IBU of of 64, OG of 1.064 (1:1 BU:GU ratio) and an SRM of 9.6 using Daniels to calculate. Looking at the screen shot of what it spit...

Hey Jim, What part of Arkansas are you from?

+1 on spring hill. You were in North Little Rock, off McCain Blvd?

This was my first stirplate, the Thermix. I had two issues with it: it got too warm, and it was too small for my 5L flask. So I bought a bigger enclosure, and just swapped the guts over. My plan was to buy the crap to build another stirplate in this old enclosure, as it is a perfect stir plate...

ball or pinlock?

Use some BKF and a non-metallic abrasive pad to scrub it out. Rinse really well then let it air dry. After some time it will re-passify and you'll be good to go. Rust in a stainless keg comes from mild steel touching it.

Try this one: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/my-rims-job-86934/

Yoop's a gal Check my build thread in my sig.

pitch that 001.

Its so worth it in the long run. I wanted rigid tubing to start, and copper just won't cut it for me. The stainless was very costly up front (well actually the tubing was free) but the strength and the longevity make up for it.