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Edit: Forced a reinstall and it seems to be acting better now. Question on boil gravity and OG. I haven't used the new version much because of time constraints. I recently switch from BIAB to a mash tun. I thought my efficiency dropped way down. I have always had about and 8 to 10...

Or does it just let the existing yeast function better in the presense of ethanol? Or both? Ethanol Tolerance in the Yeast Saccharomyces cerevisiae Is Dependent on Cellular Oleic Acid Content http://aem.asm.org/content/69/3/1499.abstract

You just saved me doing a pointless experiment that I didn't really care about that much other than curiosity.

If you were to simply add it to your water and have some sort of stir mechanism would the CO2 in the air eventually get the job done? This is something I planned on trying before I took a 6 month contract job that kept me from all brewing activities. I might try it in the near future.

Hydrology is independent of your perception of what you think is or should be happening for whatever reasoning you apply to it.

If the wort was fermentable going into the pressure cooker, no. If pressure cooking altered food this much it wouldn't be a viable way of preserving food.

The manual that comes with the meter isn't all that informative. The only variation on the method I know of is that you don't have to hit the confirm button when it tells you too. It seems you can let the probe sit longer. If it were that automatic it wouldn't have the confirm button.

Suite!

I think I heard of this stuff on the telescope making list. This is nasty crap if it is the same thing I'm thinking of.

So now you say you have a different model just the same brand?

Resolution: 0.1 pH. Accuracy: ±0.1 pH (20°C), ±0.2 pH. 0.1pH is the stated accuracy and I wouldn't call that "very accurate" for what we do. Or is it .2? In that case it is a huge difference. For our purposes 0.1 matters. There is a difference between 5.3 and 5.5. There is a bigger...

Malto-dextrin will add back unfermentable sugars won't it?

My main computer won't boot so I don't have a date but I brewed about 1 month ago. My readings today when I tested the probe are 7.00 and 3.98. I don't think I'll bother running the calibration routine. Edit: Just to be clear I have the MW102 which is why I posted in this thread.

Then you shouldn't be posting this in the science section. All you can really do is trail and error recipes based on your taste buds.

Posted the wrong thing. Home brew WAS involved: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Milwaukee-MA9015-pH-ORP-Electrode-Probe-Storage-Solution-230ml-hanna-hi70300m-/271378479142?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f2f6a f826 Milwaukee even suggests using vinegar to clean the probe...

I don't know how much polident is but I use: Milwaukee Instruments Storage Solution for pH/ORP Electrodes EDIT: Posted the wrong thing. Home brew WAS involved...

I used BF for this one an hit my numbers. That recipe has a lot of c60 and that is quite acidic. Kai did the BF calculator and this page. Check out where c60 falls in the graph. http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title=Mash_pH_control This was one of the brews I could do well with my pH...

The temp meter on mine seems to be the most accurate of the ones I own. I'd hate to lose the use of it at higher temps.

Input these numbers into one of the calculators and start playing with the profiles. The only thing I don't know about is the iron. Brewing has a low threshold but I don't know the number since it isn't a concern for me. Other than that it looks like you decent brewing water.

Only to start. The first 'fix' is always free. :D Next step is to use one of the water calculation programs. If you have a water report you can skip straight to that step. If you use RO water you can also skip to that step and just use 0 for values. That should get you close enough.