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And here are the results: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=529395 Basic conclusion in my case: probably an infection caused by something on the bottling wand or in the bottling bucket. Nothing else, aeration, drops, sanitization, temps, made any noticeable difference.

Just completed my bottling experiment: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=529395 Basic conclusion in my case: probably an infection caused by something on the bottling wand or in the bottling bucket.

I just posted a thread in this forum on a bottling experiment I did trying to resolve a very similar issue. I think that a significant color change in the bottle is always a sign of something having gone wrong (don't listen to people who tell you that it's because the yeast is dropping out...

Hi All I recently conducted an experiment in order to try to isolate what was causing my pale beers to darken and develop sweet, sherry-like off-flavors in the bottle. I had 5 gallons of tasty, fully fermented IPA (1.057 to 1.009 in 3 weeks, 55 IBUs) which I bottled one month ago from a bucket...

Here's a tip: heat your strike water to 6F/3C higher than your desired temperature and put it in the tun. It will naturally heat the tun up to the temperature you want it to be, and in doing so it will drop your strike water down to the actual dough-in temp.

Guldalian, this is an amazing result. It has to be due to the materials on which the tun is sitting. I'm assuming your table is hardwood or something similar, what is your floor made of/covered with?

So, the simple thing for you to do is just to add 2-ish teaspoons of Gypsum to every 5 gal brew. The style you brew needs crisp hop bitterness and the gypsum adds sulfates which help that along. But if you're worrying about ratios and pH and all that other stuff, you really need Bru N' Water...

Cool, good luck! In the future, I'd advise adding the acid: it controls for Mash pH, which is (I have learned) an incredibly important variable in crisp, light-colored ales. You can sub in lactic acid, which is real cheap for a small vial you'll get years of homebrew use out of. I like this...

I think the "30" in Caramalt refers to the Lobivond number, i.e. its darkness, not the time at which it is added. Hops indeed are added at 60 minutes, 30 minutes into the 90-minute boil. The acid, gypsum and chloride are added to your mash water before you mash. You'll have to calculate how...

I think that Azazel is right about the bittering/flavor line, though I'm only 7 IPAs in or so and don't have the extensive personal experience to back that up. It's just what all the reliable sources say. However, I do am less confident about the C. Chloride thing... I have friends who make...

If you're cooling to 180F that fast, then yeah, the IBU addition will be fairly minimal. Certainly not enough to make a significant difference to a brew that does a 90 minute boil with 3.5 oz columbus! That's already a lot of bittering, obviously. If you were going from 212 to 180 in, say, 45...

I can confirm that the BFPH44M4LM easily fits a ball-lock keg and CO2 tank with 2 minutes of simple unscrewing/removal. It's a fantastic model for kegging because the door has indents which nicely line up with keg(s). Best $50 I ever spent on homebrewing!

FWIW, I've had no problems using my hydrometer on 140F wort. Not sure why, since so many seem to report bad readings, but when I plug my results into the Brewer's Friend temperature adjustment calculator, the hydrometer agrees with the refractometer reading taken at 80 F (I've calibrated the...

Here's a possible compromise: do what I did, get a nice big kettle (at least 7.5 gals) and a large wilser bag. Learn the ins and outs of all-grain by doing the Brew in a Bag method. Then, if you feel like getting a little more complex and nitty-gritty, you can buy a mash tun or a larger...

The only other thing I would mention is that there is a lot of info out there on whirlpooling temps... many of the oils that produce hop aroma volatilize and disappear above 190 F, and the most abundant one, Myrcene, boils off at 147F. Many will say (though I'm not sure of this, no expert here)...

I started with a bottling wand that appears to have been oxidizing my beers. I'm at the end of an experiment on this, but I'm 95% sure that the large amount of agitation/foam that was kicked up by my old wand was producing oxidation in my lighter beers. But if your beer is flowing smoothly...

Just a vote for keeping the grain bill simple... my IPAs have gotten better and better as I've started simplifying the bill (as per advice given by Yooper and others). Now I just toss 5-7% of munich in with the 2-row and it comes out super clean and crisp. Resist the temptation to throw stuff...

Are you checking the tab on the Bru n' Water sheet which tells you your estimated mash pH? I've heard that lighter beers darken over time because my mash pH was too high, and if you're adding a bunch of bicarbonate to match a certain Bru n' Water style you might actually be pushing your pH too...

There's a ton of great English and French craft stuff that's slowly being imported into the USA. See if you can get ahold of a 750 ml bottle of French farmhouse Cidre (note: NOT Stella Cidre). Etienne Dupont is shipping a lot of stuff over these days, and their stuff is really representative...

I've always found it interesting to look at the amount of sugar in "Ciders" like Angry Orchard and Smith&Forge. It's extraordinary. Someone on here measured Woodchuck at 1.045. Think about that: that's the low range for pure unfermented apple juice. The amount of sweetener/syrup you have to...