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Yeah, this is still in the garage. I'm just trying to keep the steam in check. Half of my garage ceiling is not yet dry walled so the wood took on a ton of moisture. I will be drywalling and finishing it at some point but still want to put in an exhaust solution. I should only have to run one...

I just went through my first electric brew session, still brewing in the garage, and I need to come up with ventilation solution for all the steam. I've searched through some threads but wondering what success people have had with cheap range hoods that are near 400 CFM? I see some online for...

I have a similar issue with two Intertap flow control faucets. I don't know what the issue is but it pours entirely foam and makes a hissing sound as it pours. Very frustrating. I do see some bubbles in the line and replaced the diptube gasket but haven't had any luck.

Alright, so maybe this will be the last question until I order all this stuff and move forward on putting it all together. If I want to add breakers, would I just put them where I've indicated in the picture? Use a 32A for the BK element and a 16A for the RIMS? Then I can step the wire down to...

Thanks again Doug. So if I can confirm, the black hot going to the two pump switches should run through a single fuse, then I assume I can hit one pump switch from the other end of the fuse and then daisy chain off that connection to the next pump switch? Referencing back to your daisy chain...

Ive been staring at this drawing for awhile and reading some stuff. Is it as easy as swapping the black load wire going into the rims contractor for a neutral? and continuing that through to the element receptacle? Will that still work the element lamp just after the contractor?

If you don’t mind and it’s easy enough to do that’d be great.

I guess that’s what I’m trying to confirm. Would the outlet and wiring for the 120v element have to be changed in the diagram then to drop to 120 within the panel? Or can you use a 120v element on a 240 v plug and it will still only use 120v and 1650 w? As you can see I’m showing my electric...

I'm having a hard time finding one that is a low watt density at 240V and less than 2000w that's ready to connect to something. I was looking to use the elements that are welded onto a TC fitting to avoid dealing with any additional hardware and gaskets.

So if I go with 40A, running a 5500W element for BK and get a 1650 120v element, I'm at about 37A. Plus less than 2A for the pump because I'll only be running one pump for awhile. I should be fine then right? Should I be looking for a low density watt element for the RIMS tube? Can you run a...

Awesome thanks again. Sorry for all the questions but I'm really hooked on looking at all this stuff now. Couple more questions and I'll give it a break until I move forward and start purchasing some things: Is it easier to use terminal strips to tie in all the neutral wires and various hot...

So just change the one contactor and use 8AWG in place of 10. That seems easy enough. Is there any reason to use the thinner gauge wire and add in those fuses / breakers rather than change the wire? And for the contactors, can you use these DIN rail mounted units? If so, instead of a 40A, would...

Awesome will check it out tonight. I guess first quick question would be is there anything that would have to be different in the diagram if running off a 40A? Also, those contactors, should they be 120v or 240v? When looking at some of that stuff on Auber it looked like there were two options...

Thanks Doug, maybe i should have asked this prior to getting such a detailed diagram, but is there a good resource that explains the need for the various components within the panel? To what Augie is saying above, would a panel based on this diagram be able to handle a lower W RIMS element and...

Can you share info on your controller? I'm open to anything at this point. I like the idea of housing everything into one controller and I also like the idea of building something myself. Hopefully allowing me to learn something along the way.

Definitely interested. I came across an older post from 2013 (I think that's when it was) that discussed the idea of running two lines in to the control panel. One was a 15a for the RIMS and then the other a 30a for the boil. I guess then having two PIDs in the control panel, each running from...

I tried to explain I am looking for one panel to run the high watt element for the boil and also the low watt rims simultaneously. It’s becoming a bit more clear now that this may require two separate circuits or a 50a. The 50a option seems a bit much to run the low watt element. Thanks...

Definitely up for giving it a shot.

But can any of these run both the mash and boil kettle at the same time?

I've been doing some searching and am interested in the idea of possibly getting into a RIMS setup and also converting my boil kettle to electric. However, I don't see any prebuilt controllers available that have the ability to run both the RIMS element and a boil kettle element. This will allow...