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Adding wheat or carapils will aid head retention, but if the beer fermented at too high a temp, that can adversely affect head retention too. What temp did it ferment at? Otherwise, I agree to make sure you rinse your bottles thoroughly after cleaning. I wouldn't use bleach personally...

Ahh, thanks for the tip. I might need to nip down to Seattle or Portland to see my "uncle." And I got my sight glass from Bobby, believe it! Even with shipping to the Great White North, you can't beat it for price or quality.

No, why?

Oh yes. I've been thinking for awhile about how to broach the subject. I'm thinking: "Hey, can you weld me a brewstand?"

I finally dropped some coin on a new stainless-steel kettle after using a 6.5 gallon kettle for 6-gallon batches since I started doing all-grain a couple years ago. My new kettle is 53-quarts and much thicker/better quality than the old cheapo model. I'm taking it to my welder friend tomorrow...

I've done six gallon boils on both an electric coil and gas stovetop. It takes about 30 mins, but it boils. I understand not everyone has had this experience, but I brewed that way for almost two years.

That would leave both dry hoppings in the fermenter for at least a week longer--is there a way to avoid this? I can't crash cool (unless I leave it outside, but even then we're at around 10*C right now, but does that stop the dry-hopping process too, or at least minimize it?

RDWHAHB is mantra among homebrewers. It's from Charlie Papazian's original homebrewing book. It's advice for whenever you're stressing or anxious over your beer: "Relax, don't worry, have a homebrew!"

Yep, you don't need a starter and one packet will do you if it's a five gallon batch. You're good.

So my Pliny has been bubbling away for quite some time now and I'll be racking and dry hopping in a week or so. I wanted to use gelatin in this beer, but I'm a bit confused as to how to proceed in combination with the dry hopping schedule. I've read here that many people dry hop for two weeks...

Do you have a blow-off tube? Why not use it? I agree it will probably be okay, but if you're worried, throw it on. If you don't have one, RDWHAHB. In fact, RDWHAHB anyway.

Don't sweat it! Relax. Don't worry. Have a homebrew. What you're seeing is exactly what should be happening. Most folk around here don't even bother to rack to a secondary any more. Take a hydrometer reading in a couple days, see what's what. Then bottle or keg and enjoy your stout!

I think I'm with Revvy on this one. The OP said he got "flustered"--maybe the LHBS dude did too. Then you both got into this ****ty situation where you're arguing over 1-3 pounds of DME and no one comes out a winner. If the guy runs a good shop and is generally a good guy, is this the hill you...

Before adding lactose, I would check my mashing temps. What did you mash this at? Remember: lower mash temps lead to lower final gravities. Try mashing a bit higher next time. Of course, a low O.G will lead to a slightly lower F.G. With better efficiency, somewhere in the high 1.040s should be...

That's great, BF. Thanks a lot for the response.

Thanks for the reply BobbyM--I'm actually asking a different question than the OP. I'm getting a friend to weld the kettle. Do I still need an o-ring for a welded setup?

Bump?

Yes, it would eventually wear off in your beer--especially if you put it in hot wort. But I meant the "only if you don't mind" bit--it wasn't snark. We consume all kinds of chemicals every day, and a bit of sharpie ink probably won't hurt you... ;)

You might want to re-title the OP then--you might get more focussed responses. I've never made an Imperial Wit myself; nor have I drank one, even. There are a few "Double" Belgian Wits on the market, though. I'd peruse them for inspiration.

As long as you don't mind the sharpie ink getting into your beer, which it will do if you put it on the inside of your kettle or on your spoon.