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Now is perfectly fine. I would normally wait to add it until fermentation is complete and the fermenter has had a chance to cool down a bit. In the future to reduce the impact of O2 you can always toss in a bit of Ascorbic Acid (vitamin C) along with your hops.

IPA - Citra Mosaic Simcoe NZ Lager - Magnum, Motueka, Riwaka

Anybody friends with analytical chemists? Or have a GC laying around?

Hey Check out the other 3d print thread. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/homebrew-talk-3d-print-thread.596124/ Any chance your files are easily editable for 2" tc?

This is going to be one of those incredibly hard to debate things. To shake this out you'd need a well defined side by side experiment. This is where I see a lot of homebrew debates go sideways, everyone's flavor perception varies, and what may work with Hop A may not work as well with Hop B...

Permeate pump is an optimization for pressurized systems in order to maximize the dP (change in pressure) across the membrane. As your open tank system is dumping to atmospheric pressure, it is as good as it gets, unless you want to seal your tank and run vacuum on it like a lunatic.

+1 for the permeate pump

Party on Fort Wayne.

The recipe looks like it will make a beer and a good one at that, but you have to remember this whole thing is super subjective and really depends on what the individual calls a good time. Maybe it would help to understand what your goals are as far as flavors, looks, abv? Me personally, I'd...

Search, boo boo. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/fermentation-chamber-heating-recommendations.697793/#post-10457722 I use a seedling heat mat that I duct taped to a bit of reflectix insulation and used that to wrap around my fermenters for kveik on the upper end. At ~20w for the whole...

I have used them wrapped around the fermenter and for fermenters with a flat bottom I have just placed the fermenter on top (big mouth bubbler, speidel, fermonster etc.) At 17.5 w it can heat a chamber but you will get better mileage having direct contact.

If you are willing to share a copy of your city's water report, preferably before and after. I'm sure we could provide more pointed advice.

Those will work, I use something similar with an inkbird controller. The 10x20 ones are only 17.5 w so you really don't have to worry about cooking your yeast.

I have just been using food grade buckets with float valves. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012DU0ZAO?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1

Have you tried clicking in the breaker button?

Is that mold I'm seeing? If it is mold, I wouldn't mess with it.

Depending on the beer and the water you start with I'm anywhere between 2-6 mL toward the end of boil to get ~6 gallons of wort down to the necessary range. This is one of those places I am finding brewfather is helping with my consistency, I use the batch notes to record this kind of info and...

I've been following the advice out of the following post and it has made whirlfloc a lot more consistent for me. The pH measured at room temperature should be between 5.0 and 5.2 for whirlfloc to be effective. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/ideal-pre-and-post-boil-ph.669433/post-8662277

These measurements are while the pump is circulating? Just trying to consider if there is a potential for stratification or some other current.

Is this trial still available?