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I did it this way... That said, Jaybird's price is more than fair IMO.

Probably somewhere around 160 for ethanol...

I had a similar situation, I had extra PCBs that I didn't need for my Teensynet project, and I was going to offer them here, either as bare or completed boards. I checked with TxBrew beforehand, and was informed that I'd have to pay the cost of being a Sponsor if I wanted to offer any of them...

You might want to read this...

My avatar says it all...

Hi Jaybird, Are you still offering this?? I'm interested in a 4 foot length...

It really depends on what you're controlling, and how frequently the relay is being turned on/off. I was controlling two large commercial freezers with one of my TeensyNet controllers and never had a problem, but I have always used SSRs. If I'm not mistaken, the max load on those little relays...

Unless you're planning on adding a 4" tri-clamp opening on the top of the sanke in place of the current 2" opening, placing weldless fittings near the bottom of the keg is going to be quite a challenge. I have three sanke kegs that I use for fermenting; one standard keg and two Beverage Factory...

The main advantage with SSRs, IMHO, is that most of the SSRs are zero crossing function devices. This means that when you're running an inductive device such as a pump motor, there's not as large an in-rush current when turned on, nor is there a large inductive kickback when the device is turned...

I use the Teensy board for all of my designs, and have used both transistors and FETs for more drive capability and level translation when necessary. I have directly run the SSRs with as little as 3.3v over short distances for hours with no problems. Like you said, it will most likely work, but...

I'm not familiar with the arduino setup, but replacing the relay board with SSRs should be fairly simple providing the arduino outputs (pins 5 & 6 in your case) are capable of sourcing about 5 volts if the "ON" output is HIGH, or sinking about 20ma if the ON output is LOW. If the ON output is...

What's the current price??

That "white chalk-ish appearance" is the silicone tubing breaking down. I used to put my silicone blowoff tubing directly into starsan in a bottle, and the "white chalk-ish appearance" and brittleness showed up after prolonged exposure. I now do pressurized fermentation with a spunding valve, so...

I named my home built system "Barney" and felt that my avatar should be a good representation of how I feel that BATFE should be represented.

For some reason, my sixtel sanke keg from a local brewery has started foaming excessively. If was pouring fine, when my temp controller on my keezer got stuck on, and the beer froze. I replaced the controller, and allowed the keg to thaw. That was two weeks ago. Ever since I've had the foaming...

Starsan makes the hoses brittle. I had a similar problem with my silicone blow-ff tube in starsan.

I retired July of 2017. I got a small pension from my 10 years as a Court Marshal which covers our medical insurance with some left over, and since I also had 30 "good" years with Social Security, I was exempted from the "windfall" reduction (don't get me started on that... o_O). I now work...

Here's how I did it.

Looks like you dimpled from the inside, and then re-inserted the ferrule from the outside. Good job!!:ban:

I've done a bunch of kettles and sankes using a home-made dimpler, and it works just fine, just takes a little more muscle on the wrenches.