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I am in a similar situation, in that the published water report was useless for brewing purposes. I sent an email out to the water district, and they were happy to send me everything I needed. Worth a try, and might save you a few bucks.

Everything I've read tells me a carbon filter is the best way to remove chlorine from water.

Looks like nice brewing water to me. Definitely not hard. Chloride is good, but I think you were asking about chlorine? Your carbon filter should get rid of chlorine/chloramine.

White Labs version is WLP300. I fermented at around 70F and got a nice balance of spice and banana. I did all grain though. You should think about a starter

Maybe rack it onto some candi syrup? I have done that in the past with a dubbel. I'd worry about oxygenation with options 2 and 3.

3711 can be a monster, but pitching adequate cells is necessary IMO. Beersmith recommends a starter with that grain bill, or two packs of yeast. In your position, I would get another pack of 3711 and make a starter, and pitch it at high krausen. Good luck.

They say on the packet/tube "Pitch into 5 gallons of wort", but there is rarely adequate cells for 5 gallons of wort. I usually do a starter or pitch multiple packs if I haven't made a starter. This is a good resource to help you figure out how much you should pitch: http://yeastcalculator.com

I've had 3711 dry a beer out completely at those temps. What was your recipe/mash schedule/mash temps? Did you use a starter?

Sounds like a great idea. Rochefort uses coriander in their dark ales, and orange may work with chocolate elements in the brown ale. Balancing the hops may be the trick. It could be awesome. I say go for it!

The system comes with a cap on the outlet, which I replace when I'm done with it. Some water stays in the canisters, and I just flush it out for a couple of minutes when I use it.

I've had ciders take a month in primary. They just keep going. Be patient.

I bought an APEC RO-CTOP portable RO system. I hook it up only on brew day. It takes a couple of hours to get 10 gallons out, but I don't have to deal with storage tanks and plumbing. I'm happy with it. You can hook it up to the faucet or to a hose...

Give Castle Rock Homebrew Supply a call. I saw them punching someone's pot a while back. http://castlerockhomebrew.com/

I use White Labs yeast mainly, but I'm sure Wyeast has something similar: http://www.whitelabs.com/beer/yeast-style-charts

Brian, I found this article on Braukaiser's web site to be really helpful. It specifically addresses your bottle carbing question: http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title=Fermenting_Lagers

I have used this strain. I would definitely move it higher if you're looking for that characteristic tartness. You may get more sulphur and penolic at the lower temps. Definitely use a blowoff tube as well. This one can produce crazy amounts of krausen.

+ 5 gal of Vienna Lager = 7547.5

Either way, pot residue or not, I wouldn't risk pouring into my wort. That's just me though. I hate dumping beer.

Well, if they came from the same pot, and one has a black ring and the other doesn't, wouldn't there be a good chance that the issue didn't start in the pot?

I wouldn't use it. The risk of infecting a batch is too great IMO.