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and a good excuse to pull the trigger on a 3-d printer. :mug:

great choice for a simple start. hobgoblin is a fantastic beer. a couple tips, though there are hundreds more on this site to look for, 1.-make sure to aerate as much as you can before you add the yeast, and then do your best to keep oxygen out of every step after that. just splash the beer...

it would work perfectly for a 'farmhouse ipa' or maybe a close approximation of a belgo-pale ale. personally, i hate the character of a saison yeast. i think maybe it might add something in a huge dark bier de guard or bdsa with a co-pitch of brett b, but that's a big investment of time and...

i believe it needs to be supercritical CO2, which is a hot mess to deal with on a home scale.

it just seems like a hobby that is so diy centered would see more garage style engineering with cappers. I fully understand the reasonably low cost vs dependability of the wing style or even bench cappers, but when has that stopped any of us before?

oh, boy. you've never stirred a curd, i take it? 😋

If and when I try this again, I'll stick to a quick extraction time and use a very high proof whiskey instead of the neutral spirit to try and get a bit more character overall.

i did a freezer extraction with some older pellet hops in some 'grain alcohol' 95% or so. i left it for a week or two and extracted a bit too much leafy type green flavors. dropped into a glass of beer, it doesn't want to mix at all into the carbonated beer, but instead foams up into a wierd...

i've always wondered why there was such a shortage of home-made cappers, especially considering the abundance of home made cheese presses and the fairly similar nature of the two devices.

Oh, i stopped listening to her ever since she dropped the dominatrix avatar. :p

yes, this is generally true. you're just trying to get all the sugars and flavor out of the grain as you can to hit your expected gravities.

there can be. you would need to consider the ph of the mash. if your ph is either too high or too low you can pull unwanted flavors out of the grains, such as harsh tannins, etc. I've never used boiling water, so i really couldn't say with confidence whether it would cause issues or not, but...

and no worries. I try not to make assumptions on people's equipment or experience. you can really throw confusion in both directions if everyone isn't on the same page, as it were.

while it's very true, the temperature of the sparge water doesn't really matter, i've found that using room temp or even colder sparge water only serves to cool down your overall wort temperatures and forces you to take even longer to get that up to boiling. there may be efficiency issues with...

ok, then yes. after you 'mash out' by raising the temperature of your grains to over 173or higher, then you pull the grain bag or pipe or whatever and begin sparging with preferably warm water until you reach your intended pre-boil volumes.

you say pull the grains, are you using an all-in-one system?

you would add 180F water to raise the temperature of your mash to 175 ish in order to finish the mash.

for this recipe, as it is written, you would mash at 155F for 60 minutes, then follow your normal mash out and sparge procedure. mash out at around 180F to stop all enzyme activity, and sparge with water around 165-175 to keep the sugars loose flowing.

oh, and by the way, i'm pretty sure the chicago spring is getting skipped this year. we'll have one next year. we *might* catch a short summer in 9 months, but this winter isn't loosening it's grip any time soon.

The helles, bock, and helles bocks that i have enjoyed have been a bit sweet on the front, with a clean crisp finish. As far as the decoction goes, any beer with pils, vienna, or munich as a base will support the extra layer of flavor very well. My personal rule of thumb is the lighter the...