Search results

I believe nearly all brewing stainless is 300 series. I don't see why it would be unsafe.

It should look pretty dark if it is a stout. With a lot of yeast in suspension this early on it will definitely look lighter though. The first time I brewed a porter I forgot to get chocolate malt at my LHBS and ended up making an amber colored ale. It actually turned out really tasty and I...

I always stir the mash at least twice during the mash and then when I dump my sparge water in I stir again. I don't know if this is considered the "proper" way but I get about 75% efficiency.

I'm not really sure how to do any of it really haha I am mostly just brainstorming. You had mentioned stainless lines so I thought you already had a supplier for some. You could probably use a coil of stainless that is usually used as an immersion chiller like this. For the glycol lines, I...

I feel like you will probably want to use stainless steel tubing since you are building the lines into the house. I guess both stainless and plastic can develop leaks but I think it is more likely to need to replace the plastic tubing which would be a huge hassle if you are building them into...

I suspect you may have had the sparge water channeling through the grain bed causing the low efficiency. Did you fly sparge or batch sparge? Did you stir the mash at any point?

I absolutely agree with you here. I also love a hop stand and usually use about that percentage of the total hops with great results. Also, I have found that I prefer at least 0.8oz of hops per gallon of beer for the dry hop on my hop-centric beers. I always see recipes for APA/IPA/IIPA with...

I don't completely agree with you. I have experimented with this and find that I prefer a 60/20/15/10/5/0 schedule to a 60/10/5/0 schedule. I feel like you get more of a complete hop character with the 20 and 15 min additions.

It sounds like it should work. The only way to know is for you to try it and then post the results!

I don't know if wheat does much if you just steep it. I feel like it will cause starch haze but I am not sure. I would drop the wheat if I were you. I would also use either the honey malt or the caramel malt, not both, but I like a not so sweet IPA. EDIT: I just realized you listed honey on...

With a healthy fermentation 7 days is not too short. I have many beers that are finished even sooner than that. Any additional time is just to clear the beer.

After fermentation beer is still carbonated just not much. I think it is something like 1.3 volumes of CO2.

it looks to me like it could be a still but I honestly don't know. If it is a still then I imagine a copper pipe would be attached to that top post with the hole in it.

Yep that is exactly right! It adds a lot of hop aroma without a lot of hop bitterness.

When I brewed extract it was very common for my beers to finish high especially if I added all of the extract at the start of the boil. The kettle can caramelize some of the extract and create some unfermentable sugars. Even more so if you used a small kettle and topped up with water before...

Here is what I would do: 9 lbs 2-row 8.0 oz Caramel 60L 8.0 oz Cara-pils Mash @ 150°F for 60 minutes 0.25 oz Millenium 60 min 0.25 oz Chinook 15 min 1.00 oz Centennial 30 min Hop Stand @ 170°F 1.00 oz Motueka 30 min Hop Stand @ 170°F ***Optional***Dry hop with 2-4 oz Motueka for 5-7 days...

Yeah I would definitely repitch if it still hasn't started. You also may need a blowoff tube since you don't have a ton of head space.

Add it to your HLT. You will mash in with this water and sparge with this water. I feel like you will definitely want it in your sparge water so the pH isn't too high.

One gallon batches can ferment very quickly. Are there any signs of krausen (the foamy stuff) on the sides of the fermenter? It might help if you post a pic.

Well, neither are a myth. Underpitching will cause a lot more ester production due to the yeast being stressed. I have experienced this first hand.