Search results

I just bought some new kegs and one of them is doing this exact same thing. I have never taken them apart or anything. Am I able to change or adjust the o-ring with the beer still in the keg? Or should I transfer to another keg to fix it?

So after 1-2 weeks in primary, after fermentation is complete and the beer has cleared quite a bit, you just dump your hops right in the carboy. Hops are a natural preservative so you don't need to worry about infecting the beer with hops. I prefer to dry hop for 5-7 days.

If his efficiency was close to what Beersmith said then wouldn't his numbers be low? He added a half gallon of water and still hit his Beersmith numbers which makes me think he achieved a greater efficiency.

You could have him brew with his water on your equipment and see if that fixes it. If not then you know it is the water. If he uses RO water on his equipment and still gets it then I would guess it is an infection (the acidic bite makes me lean towards this more anyways). He needs to bleach bomb...

The FG will be whatever the yeast decide it will be. Neither you nor the recipe have a say in the FG. You can predict where it will end but the yeast are done when they are done. If there aren't any sugars left for the yeast to eat then they will stop eating. Pitching more yeast won't change...

If you add volume markings in all of your vessels it makes it much easier to know what volume of water you have. I did all of my markings myself (except in my cooler MLT since it came with markings). I used a thread here for the instructions: How to add permanent volume markings to a...

Yep I always dry hop in primary. I absolutely love dry hopping with Citra. It can get expensive but is totally worth it.

So you want to use your HLT as your BK? Where do you plan to run your first runnings in to? If the HLT has your sparge water in it you can't use it as your boil kettle. You would need to either run your wort into a temporary vessel until your sparge is finished or just have a dedicated HLT, MLT...

When I BIAB I do full volume mashes. You use however much water you normally start with to end up with 1 gallon post-boil. So, if you boil off 0.5 gal/hour then you will start with 1.5 gallons. Then add 0.1 gallons of water per pound of grain to compensate for absorption. If you have the...

It looks like what happened is you achieved a higher mash efficiency than you set in Beersmith and you have your boil off rate set about 0.5 gal per hour (assuming a 60 min boil) too high. Also, I think you are correct in assuming that you were 0.5 gal low pre-boil due to not entering the...

You don't really need to let a pot sit for 2 weeks before using it after cleaning with barkeeper's friend. It doesn't take long for the passivation layer to be created. I listened to the stainless steel episode of Brew Strong today and John Palmer said you can use the freshly cleaned stainless...

I think wort is pronounced wert. Like word with a t instead of a d. I prefer that way since saying wart just sounds disgusting. I have heard most people say kroysen but I prefer saying krowsen. I am not sure on lauter. I say law-ter but I have heard Jamil Zainasheff say low(as in how)-ter.

That is how I say hydrometer too. Do a lot of people say it hy-dro-mee-ter?

Maybe dry hop the crap out of it?

I think it sounds better too. My brewing buddy thought I was saying "chud" at first so that is what we have been calling it since. Chud just sounds so dirty.

It looks like after adjusting for alcohol your beer finished at 1.018. It finished fermenting that high since you mashed at such a high temperature. After fermentation you need to use a hydrometer for accurate gravity readings.

I don't think you need to boil for 90 minutes but I have never brewed at that elevation. I am at 4,200 feet and haven't had any problems. Your FWH would be done the same but it would be boiled for 90 minutes but Beersmith will make the IBU adjustment for that. I have never checked if you can...

What temperature did you mash at? You could try making a starter and pitch it at high krausen.

It looks good to me. I would take an ounce from your bittering addition and add it at flameout. I would also dry hop this beer with at least 2 oz but preferably 4 oz. I love a ton of hop aroma in my pales though. I love Nottingham yeast. I prefer to ferment Nottingham at 55°F to keep it super...

So when I first started brewing I had always pronounced trub like it is spelled, trub. When I was talking to the guy at one of the LHBS he corrected me and said it is pronounced "troob" like true with a B at the end. Since then I have tried to make a conscious effort to pronounce it troob...