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50 Amp GFCI breaker and a new 4 wire outlet installed, seems to work alright and I only got shocked a few times ;) Anyone have recommendations for hole sizes for L5-15 and L6-30 NEMA flanged outlets? I'm also on the lookout for some clean minimilistic Cat 5e ports to install on the bottom of...

I think Art. 404.2(c) of NFPA 70 is the best bet, though in my situation I think there could be an argument for being able to install the neutral line without affecting the finish. I don't own the code yet, so I can't quote it (website doesn't allow copy-pasting), but here is an article...

I'm looking in Art 406 of the NFPA 70 and Art. 260 of the Virginia Construction Code and I can't find anything that says it's contrary to. Would be great if I could, because then I could wave that in the electricians face and probably get rework done for free ninety nine!

That's what I figured. Thanks. All suggestions have and will be taken into consideration. #relax

These went together very satisfyingly.. 4 SSR's on heat sinks, and some sticky icky thermal compound, sliding all up on some DIN rail. Think I'll need a heat sink on the panel?

Haha, thanks I appreciate the concern. I understand the concept of split phase, I work with 3 phase AC at much higher voltages, though the electrical circuits I work on are nothing like residential wiring so there is a bit of a learning curve. Rest assured I won't perform any maintenance that...

If the house is designed to have 3 wire 220v, is it likely that a neutral even exists? I haven't opened the breaker box yet, but the whole point of 3 wire is to conserve material by not having to run the 4th wire. I'll crack it open later and check it out, but it would still be cheaper at this...

Haha, I do not. What's the concern?

Give or take an inch

Here's the schematic for the mechanical side of things. Pictured is a bypass on the HLT, which I have deemed unnecessary and am no longer including. Control panel soon to come! Cheers!

Here's some photos of the build so far, not including schematics. I like to draw my schematics by hand so I'm still working on the final draft before I post it :D It's mostly just part accumulation right now.

Haha, good question! I popped it open, it's three wires. That would have been a fun conversation with the electrician ;D

I think I am going to gut this and install it into the panel to power the 110v bus. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XWTFJ1V/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Thanks for the reply! The 240v line coming into my panel only has 3 wires, no dedicated neutral wire. So if I take one leg of the 240v line to try to make a 120v bus inside the panel, I only have one wire feeding the bus with no access to the neutral bus inside the main panel.

That's definitely an option, I am trying to avoid having the panel have multiple power sources though. Another backup plan for sure.

Thanks for the input augiedoggy, I hadn't considered DC pumps. If all else fails that could be a cheaper alternative.

That's the conclusion that I came too as well, at least with the method of using one leg. Though I still think that it might be possible to use a step down transformer to create a split phase 120vac. I don't know if anything out there exists, but this is the route that I'm looking into right...

Good day! I'm making this thread to document my build process, hopefully it's in the right place. Bit of background: I have about two years of brewing experience, all extract. Got the itch to go all-grain from the moment I first read about it and have been working on the transition for...

Hey Kal, thanks for the reply ... though it doesn't really get to the heart of my question. If I wanted to have a tri-clover CIP sanitary flexible hose connection that I wont have to chop the ends off every other brew, how would I go about creating one? Maybe I'm overthinking this, but...

So, how do you keep your hoses and hose connections sanitary in a homebrew setting? What's the DIY alternative to the super expensive $20/foot commercial hoses?