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Not as bad, but I bought a new scale for my grain and toasted 8kg of grain instead of 8 lbs. It still made a good fat tire clone. David

Temp control is a big one. I found big starters worked for me. 3 litres for 10 gallon batches. I since have bought a stir plate and only need 1.6 litres for a 10 gallon batch with the same result. Water does matter, but only if you have problem water. I use only the best ingredients to make...

I use a similar regulator. I do not read the PSI, I just adjust from zero up until the bubbles are what I want. I think that one will work fine for you. Be sure to turn the tank off when you are done. David :)

I stir about every 20 minutes, but I have a directly fired tun. Insulation isn't as good as a cooler. David.

My first exp was with a beer machine. Add can o stuff, water yeast, and maybe sugar. The beer ferments in the serving container. Being my first home brewed beer, I sampled it before it was even done fermenting. OLY COW! After a while, my body got used to it. I taste my hydrometer samples...

Yeast

On the second day I draw out 8 ounces and dump it. On the 4th or 6th day If its ALL yeast, I open it up for more. I have got two cups yeast in one dump. Like springer, its every 2 days. I have a fridge full (a years worth) of washed yeast so now I toss it :( Its the balls! I think...

If it was going pretty good, you fed easy pickins to good healthy active yeast. Like pitching a starter at high krausin. (please correct my spelling, its not in spell check) It just went nuts.

I don't splash or sprinkle. I just put the hose from the HLT on the grain bed and keep 1 to 2" of water on top. No problem. I never could figure out what good a sparge arm does. David :)

I always used o2. It seems to cut lag time in half. I usually get a layer of foam in 6 hours with a big starter and o2. The last batch I did had a 1.2 litre starter from washed 1272. I just poured the wort from the cube through a strainer in the fermenter to catch the hops. It foamed...

The only way you will know is to proof the yeast or like said above make a starter. Its the same thing. In the end its a win win. David

I would throw in another package. You saw the yeast die :( One cell could build up and ferment the whole batch in time. This leaves lots of time for other stuff to get into your beer and get growing. Why risk a whole batch of beer over a pack of dry yeast? Just my opinion.

Adding o2 to the wort gives all yeast a kick in the .... David

I have cut them out of plastic with no trouble. Any plastic with some thickness works fine. Last time was at a fishing weekend.... I do keep spares, I am a weldor and Co2 is a welding gas.

Most of my beers are first wort hopped. If I use All Saaz, ts gonna be good beer. I have used the high alpha hops for bittering and/or first wort hopped. So far, so good. My system works better with lots of whole hops. I am sampling my house ale that was first wort hopped with Simco...

Check the PH of the mash, THEN do something about your water if you need to. It took me a long time to understand it, then I read Palmers book on line. I drew lines on his chart and found out what I thought I already knew. My water makes for a brown ale best (SRM 12 to 15). It still makes...

I had one keg that I didn't clean good enough...... That beer got infected and I tossed it. The other keg of the same beer from the same batch was fine. Since then, I bought a big brush to clean the cornies. I cut the handle off and chuck it in a drill. Cleans the kegs great! David

Thank you :)

Just sanatize a container. Glass is better add boiled and cooled wort. Sanatize the yeast package before opening and toss it in when both are near the same temp. Any jar of bottle will do as long as its sanatized. Cover with foil to keep the other stuff out.

Shake the starter and see if Co2 bubbles come out of it. Its good for the yeast anyhow. One more day... :) David