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Should be fine. When we camp my two kegs are outside, not in ice. The only cooling is from the jockey box cold plate. Never had an issue.

I'm wanting to build some type of stand or cart for my jockey box. Anyone done something like this? Let's see it.

Let it go a couple of more days, if it has not moved (gravity wise) in a week, you are good to bottle. Your basement is a bit cold, be better if you could bet to low-mid 60s. High 60s are ok even.

Only way to calculate amount of oxygen in the wort is with an O2 meter, not cheap. Also depends on the flow rate and bubble size. Larger bubbles will just bubble to top and not absorb as well as small bubbles. I use medical oxygen via a 5 micron sintered stone and run a very slow flow rate...

I brewed a Zombie Dust clone and got busy and it dry hopped for 7wks, on the original yeast cake! Came out perfect. Had a few people try it head to head against the real thing and no one could tell the difference, a couple them were even BJCP judges. I'm not saying that this should be normal...

Not a chance. That would actually be dangerous to say the least.

Buddy and I did the same thing. We have freshly dumped bourbon barrel in my basement full of a 1.101 stout. We brewed, fermented and transferred in to the barrel. A few days before 'barrel fill day' we filled the barrel with water and let it sit for two days and drained. Reason we did this...

I would insulate personally. Before I went to a cooler/stainless braid setup, I used to wrap my Sanke in a furniture blanket. Rarely would the temp drop more than a degree, two max, over an hour mash.

There should be plenty of yeast in suspension if you want to top crop. Just make sure you crop before you add the sugar. I have rinsed yeast, but never top cropped, hope to try that soon. While fermentables are obviously important to your yeast, oxygen is paramount also. To finish very dry you...

Take a look at MrMalty.com and go to the yeast tools. You should only need about 6.5oz of slurry. A bit more cannot hurt. Only time you need to be careful is using slurry from a very hoppy beer to a non hoppy beer or from a dark, heavy style to a lighter style. You should be good to go with your...

Your primary fermentation should have finished in a week but you do need at least another week for the fermentation to clean itself up. I would suggest raising the temp to about 70 after your initial week of fermentation to kick up a bit of activity to let the yeast clean up. Your beer will be...

When I make a starter from some of the rinsed yeast I will start with a small gravity wort and move up to a larger gravity wort. I'm guessing this will take about 2 days. If the sample is infected will I know it by the smell of the yeast starter after a couple of days? Any way to tell if the...

Roughly 40 cooked cups of rice later, I have a 2.5 gallon bucket 3"-4" from full with rice and crushed yeast balls. Looking forward to opening it up in 3wks or so!! Lakedawgs

No need, I'm with you. The wife wants a steamer cooker as they are a bit more versatile. I like the dedicated rice cooker as they usually have a larger capacity, when in the same price range. We'll see who wins..........OK, I'll just have to do more batches.

Seems like using less water would make a dryer, less moist rice. Sounds good.

I have read through most of the thread and may have missed this. Couple of questions. 1) sonofgrok - you mention steaming the rice but you said you use a 'rice cooker'. Are traditional rice cookers steamers? I have borrowed a steamer but will buy one if we like this brew. I have included a...

Got the rice and yeast balls yesterday and today I am home with my son due to schools being closed after an ice storm last night. Hmmmm, looks like a good opportunity to cook up about 12 cups for rice and start a batch. Going to put the rice in a paint strainer back and ferment in a 2 gallon...

I thought about going with a manifold but I decided on a stainless braid. Batch sparging I get a solid 80%+ on 1.065 beers and less. On beers in the 1.090 range I am getting 75%+.

Did not come with a regulator. BUT, I noticed in the pic, the burner 'stem' is offset from the part where the flame comes out. Is that the difference? A low power burner the stem hits the round part in the middle and the high power burner the stem hits the round part offset?

So, to be clear, folks that unhinge the lid are fly sparging and those of us that batch sparge leave the lid hinged?