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I’ll give that a try.

There are no nuts on the set screws. They just screw into the body.

Has anyone else had this problem as well? The set screws are tight but it still opens up as you mill grains.

I’ve had some beers that would acquire a dried fruit-like flavor after about 3 weeks. The best I could come up with was aeration. I’d often lose interest after it became noticeable. I set some aside for SWMBO to cook with in the pantry. She forgot them and way later opened one, which gushed...

If one had an infection with a batch using nearly new bottles that wouldn’t have a beer stone issue still hold an infection after being cleaned with OxyClean?

Hmmmm... That I could not say. I’ve actually not paid much attention to what things look like in a long time. I’ve seen funky stuff and all was well and normal.

So is this not necessarily a sign of infection?

It’s not thin, it’s just the LED lights. It’s likely a Sierra Nevada bottle.

I’m not too concerned about any hijacking 😁 Yes, my understanding is that if they are gushing it’s likely an infection unless they’re just way over carbonated. Your second question is one I can’t say I know the answer to, but what I do know is that the warmer it is the faster things develop...

Thought I had since using cranberries or spruce tips were new to me: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/cranberry-and-spruce-tip-ipa.671226/

I’ll look back and see if I created a thread on that. What are you interested in just in case I can’t find anything? I generally ferment all of my <8% beers for 3 weeks and condition them for another 3 weeks. I can’t say for sure how long it took them to seriously gush, but I’d venture to guess...

Yeah, I have a hard time believing they weren’t finished fermenting. And honestly I guess I can’t say they taste right either. I bought a couple of pounds of HBC-342 hops as they were discontinuing them. I’ve made melon-like pale ales and loved them so I tried an IPA. It didn’t end up super hop...

It just dawned on me that my measurement of 1.006 was prior to adding the extract (added it after reading the hydrometer). I do not cold crash (I hate jacking with the STC-1000 settings). I cannot say whether or not there were flow ties in this, but I’ve certainly seen some in prior batches...

I did not use DME to prime. I use cane sugar. They taste fine, and not all seem to do this. I tossed my old bottles and started over again less than a year ago, but had a batch with floating cranberries turn to serious gushers just after Christmas. Those bottles are still in the mix. I clean...

After a couple of weeks I’ve noticed that if I pry the top and let it sit for a minute some of them will slowly build a little ring of bubbles that tend to slowly grow. And I’ve now noticed these little kruesen rings in the bottles. A sign of infection?

So we drank an epic Hazy IPA and Karmen mentioned they tend to make their IPAs dry. Dry? As in thin? Low mash temp and add some sugar? All while using a highly attenuating yeast? Is that what they’re saying?

I’ve been using MoreBeer for over a decade now and have been more than pleased. Their customer service has been quick and easy when needed. And since they opened up their second warehouse free shipping has been rather quick, as in days instead of nearly a week. Their pricing is good and free...

Initially I was using a faucet water filter and using RO water for a long time, but months back we got a new faucet that doesn’t allow that filter so I’ve been buying all distilled and working from there.

Hmmmm. I’ve always just treated it all regardless, but because I’m still doing rather short mashes. Water doesn’t seem to matter with extract bread so I wondered if this worked all the same, that it was the actual mash that mattered.

My tap water tastes fairly good out of the tap, but I know it contains chlorimine (Spl?). I’ve read that people claim the water we use to sparge with isn’t a big deal, much like when doing an extract beer. I generally have about 3-3.5 gals to sparge with, which has always been the same treated...