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... much better. I am able to boil quite vigorously and am achieving a boil-off rate of almost exactly 1.5gal/hour (it is actually a little more). I am using the natural gas wide open in conjunction with the 1500 watt element - will just have to watch for boil-overs. Very excited to brew...

Yes, I am using all of the same equipment and procedures that I used at the old house - to a TEE. I brewed a German Pils yesterday and again could not get the boil hard enough to produce any hot-break at all. I was only able to boil off ~ 0.8gal/hour so again I missed my OG by 5 points (I...

I like this idea... I was wondering if perhaps the pressure at the old house was different than the new one. Is there a way for me to test? Do I need to call a plumber?

The first install was this - http://www.homedepot.com/p/Hallman-30-in-Gas-Cooktop-in-Stainless-Steel-with-5-Burners-Including-a-Tri-Ring-Power-Burner-HGC3002ST/301541018 Current cooktop is this -...

Videos - Top-Down view - https://youtu.be/SqxpmzjVa3A General Side view - https://youtu.be/ethhUEkwc6U

Thank you all for the replies... To answer some questions - - If there was something else on that line (laundry/furnace/pool heater), it was not running while I was brewing or testing the gas. - I have some quick videos of the boil but am not sure how to post them (is there a website...

Good Evening Fellow Brewers! For over a decade I have been brewing on a Natural Gas free-standing Frigidaire Range equipped with a power burner (I think 16k or 18k BTU output, but certainly not more). I *never* had a problem getting SUPER aggressive boils with 7+ gallons of wort - even at the...

Yes, all processes were the same and I am leaning towards your conclusion myself. I think next batch will be a pilsner - at least it will be very easy to determine if the wort is darker than normal.

SHAKKA indeed! I am pretty sure I didn't scorch the wort, as I never let it get above 168 degrees. I am using small blasts of steam through a counterflow wort-chiller to 're-heat' the wort from time to time before it reenters the mashtun to keep my mash temp consistent. Thank you for your...

Not at all, I am merely asking the community if they have also noticed darker wort when moving to RIMS from a more popular cooling mash-tun steeping system.

I have been brewing exclusively all-grain batches for about 12 years now. I am very methodical and OCD about my processes, have all the little toys and instruments and hit my gravity marks and temperature goals easily. In 50+ batches, all of my beers have come out almost exactly as I had...

Success! Thanks for the tip - after corking, I push down the plate and bring down the lever again to compress the cork and the bottle drops right out.

Success! Thanks for the tip - after corking, I push down the plate and bring down the lever again to compress the cork and the bottle drops right out. http://rs467.pbsrc.com/albums/rr36/tanqwork/Mobile%20Uploads/image.jpg~320x480

For reference, here is the corker I purchased... Note that it does not have a 'quick release' at the 'mouth' like some others of this type that I have seen. Is anyone else using a corker like this?

Those are PRETTY ass bottles my friend! Are those corks protruding 5/8" out of the bottle? I tried 5/8" and notice that the wire hoods do not rest on the top of the cork using 6-7 half-turns... Any tips?

In reviewing some similar-type corkers on youtube etc, this (Protuguese/Italian?) floor corker does NOT have the spring-loaded release at the 'mouth'. The mouth where the cork is squeezed through does not change diameter or release when the handle is back at its home position - it appears to be...

I recently brewed my first batch going into Belgian bottles with corks and wire hoods - a Sorachi Ace clone. I purchased the appropriate Belgian bottles, corks, and wire hoods from Northern Brewer and found a corker on Craigslist (Portuguse or Italian style I think) and am planning to bottle...

I assume you didnt pull the hops out and that is why the bittering continued past the times you intended? (I assume a flame-out addition would be a quick 'dunk' into boiling wort and then removing since the wort wouldnt immediately be cooled.)

So, I have recently purchased a Counter-Flow chiller and the Blichman HopRocket and had a few questions... For the past several years, I used an immersion chiller and was able to time my hop additions pretty accurately since the time to < 160° was pretty quick using the immersion chiller...

Yet another reason to serve at ambient temperatures. If the keg and ambient temperature are both 80°F, and your beer requires 2.5vols, then 34.8PSI should be used. This will ensure enough pressure for pushing the beer through the system AND keep an equilibrium so no adjustments need to be made...