Search results

Oh well

Shameless plug for a video I just made on pH Calibration.

Way back when I was using glass carboy, I loved this one. https://www.morebeer.com/products/sterile-siphon-starter-smooth-neck-carboys.html It’s dependent on being able to get a seal though.

Sold

If the gap is really that far off, it’s a POS mill. I’d be embarrassed to put any name on it. Being that they’ve already tried to convince you that it is fine, I’d go straight into asking for a return. It’s unlikely any mill they send given the number of bad ones in the video will be...

We’re gonna need a bigger boat ...

So check my math. I mill at .045 inches. 17.5% of that would be 37.35 on the small end or 52.65 on the big. I’d say that’s a visual difference and is a stupid large gap difference. Is it seriously that far off?

As far as defending Ss goes, I try to speak up for them as much as I can ... when it is warranted. They have no presence here on the forums. Most of their equipment is of high quality right out of the box. I’ve never had a legitimate quality control concern that they haven’t made right. All...

220.

I can take more specific pictures if any are needed. Let me know what you’d like to see.

Fairly similar but not the same. The one I’ve got has 1.5 TC for all the pipe ends, and it’s not exactly a hot pod. It’s similar, but it’s all pre wired and enclosed. I can’t find the one I bought anymore.

I’ve got a rims tube listed for sale if thats part of your supply list

Got a price?

I can give a personal account of a really good counter flow chiller vs a really good immersion chiller. I own both a jaded hydra and an exchillerator brutus ... the blue version that is double barrel. I wanted to just do an apples to apples comparison just for the sake of it in recirculating...

If you press the far left putting and hold it a menu should come up. If it doesn’t, it’s locked. Same thing, if you press the far left button and without holding it, a menu comes up. If it doesn’t, it’s locked. There’s multiple lock menus for various options.

That was not the same for me. When set to on/off, you will have temp over shoots. Auto is just whether it uses on/off or PID.

I would highly recommend switching to PID for anything used for a mash. In a 1v system, absolutely switch to PID. In my 3v system I don’t mind my HLT being on/off. Temp isn’t crucial in that. For the boil kettle physical switch, yes it’s a physical switch but when set to on/off it just doesn’t...

While I’m thinking about it ... In one of the menus there a setting called AMoV. I don’t know what it’s for, but dialed down to -169 is a password to unlock something else. I know it does something, but haven’t figured it out yet.

For a 1v system, I’d suggest to stick with self tune. I wanted to write all of that up in case there’s other folks who are using a 3v system to understand their options.

So I’m still waiting for my next wet test to confirm what I’ve found. I’ll explain what I can though. Ssbrewtech sends the controller with many of the menu options locked, and they provide no instructions on unlocking them. You may be in the same boat as me with your factory settings. First...