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So you are comparing flavor and aroma only. This chart may help I'd suggest picking based on the ratios of the 4 main essential oils... 1) Amarillo, Citra or Simcoe - myrcene 2) Hallertauer, Saaz, or Kent Golding - humulene 3) Hursbruker, Spalt, Columbus or Chinook - caryophyllene 4)...

any help?

So it was pretty much what everyone expected. Could you save a bottle for another month and report back how it tastes then? I'm interested how the estery flavors age.

Most of what you read on forums is anecdotal. The only way to truly know the state of dry yeast popularity would be to compare their sales vs. liquid over the past few years. All I can add is that I always use dry yeast and I don't any complaints. It has never compromised the original vision...

Shipping... I spend about $6 per round trip in gas going to my LBHS.

I recently made a pale ale that had honey wheat, lemon zest and corriander in it. At first I was really disappointed and thought I messed something up because it had a bad bitter taste. It's been bottled for a month now and it's starting to taste pretty good. I can't really taste any lemon...

Light pale extract, 4 oz carapils and Safale S-05. I've done it with Simcoe, Columbus, Haullertauer and Tettnanger. I chose these hops because each one has a high percentage of one of the 4 main essential oils. I wanted to compare the differences the essential oils made. I don't think I was...

I thought I would be slick when I was racking to my bottling bucket and I attached the racking cane/tubing to the bottling bucket spigot instead of putting the tubing directly into the bucket. I failed to notice that there is a small vent hole in the front of the spigot that is exposed when the...

Most likely not.

read this: Beginner extract brewing howto then, when you have the time, read section 1 of How to Brew by John Palmer

BeerTools recipe calculator (You have to register to use it.) Hopville's Beer Calculus Tasty Brew Calculators

Woo Hoo! Homebrewing is now legal in Utah! BeerAdvocate Beer News. As far as a fermenter goes, my favorite is a 7.5 gal paint bucket. Best to mail order from a home brew supply <$20 for bucket, lid and airlock.

If you're not sure, just follow DeathBrewer's Easy Partial Mash Brewing guide. It will work with base and specialty grains.

I asked about it because it is an issue I have to deal with. The bulk extract that my LHBS sells by the pound is United Canadian Pale LME and it does need a hot break. I have had problems doing late additions with it because of the foaming hot break. But you are right that most extract (eg...

If you do all grain, then a 2.5 gallon batch should be your target size. For a 12 quart pot, (using the suggestions in DeathBrewer's all grain stove top tutorial), 6 lbs of grains would produce about 2.75 gallons of wort. As for using pop bottles... They can be used, but they are gas...

If Sdechert's extract is producing a hot break, he shouldn't just do a late addition at flame out. Doesn't he need to boil all the extract to precipitate the hot break? @Sdechert: What kind of extract are you using? Check the manufacture's website to see if it has any diastatic power. If so...

Yes! Read that link, if only just to get the tip to connect the bottling wand directly to the bottling bucket spigot. That is the best tip ever.

I'm confused, a 22 quart pot is 5.5 gallons. Anyway, according to deathbrew's partial mash guide you need 1.25 quarts of water per pound of grain for mashing. So for 6 lbs thats 7.5 qts (1.9 gal). For sparging he said to use half the amount used to mash, that would be 3.75 quarts (0.9 gal)...

Also check the wiki Malt Chart to see which malts require mashing. According to this chart, malted oats don't require a mash.

I used to stress out about hitting my gravity and IBU exactly. After doing some SMaSH tests earlier this year, I realized that it didn't make that big of a difference. Now I just toss it in and brew it. If you are worried about leftover ingredients, you could try adjusting the amount of water...