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I add the boiled water/sugar solution to a bottling bucket then siphon the beer into the bucket. Fill the bottles from the bucket with a bottle filler attachment.

I always boil everything that goes into my beer except dry hopping hops. You don't know where that sugar has been! I always try to use tools that have just been sanitized and still wet.

There's no need to sanitize your measuring cup as long as you boil the priming sugar for 10 minutes. Otherwise sanitize fresh.

Only if I knew it didn't have preservatives or other additives in it, otherwise I would use corn sugar or table sugar.

Just to be clear... It doesn't really matter when you add the lactose, boiling longer than 10 minutes will have an unnoticeable affect, if any, on it. As with malt extract just make sure to stir it in good when adding so that it doesn't scorch.

If you add it at bottling (before the priming sugar) you can add a little or a lot depending on how sweet you want to make the beer. Add a little and taste the beer, if it needs more, add more, etc. (boil the lactose in water first).

An excerpt from a good resource for troubleshooting off flavors in beer: http://www.kroc.org/Links/TroubleshootingGuide.htm

The IBU to gravity ratio comes out "extra hoppy" according to ... http://www.brewsupplies.com/_borders/hopsgraph.jpg According to the BJCP style guidelines it is within range. I get very good hop aroma and flavor even without dry hopping.

Different yeasts have different properties such as attenuation level, ester production and diacytal production, to name a few. Look on the White Labs site or the Wyeast site for details. Low Attenuating yeasts produce malty, sweeter beers while high attenuating yeasts produce dry beers with...

Ingredients: 6.0 lb Liquid Light Extract 1.0 lb Carapils® Briess 1.0 oz Tettnanger (4.5%) - added during boil, boiled 60 min 1.0 oz Hallertau (4.5%) - added during boil, boiled 60 min .5 oz Tettnanger (4.5%) - added during boil, boiled 15.0 min .5 oz Hallertau (4.5%) - added...

here's an excerpt from a great web page to troubleshoot off flavors in beer: METALLIC CHARACTERISTICS: A harsh, metallic taste noted both on the tip of the tongue and the roof of the mouth. Can be felt throughout the tongue and mouth in large concentrations. Not desired in beer. Also described...

I believe all hydrometers are calibrated to read gravity at 60 degrees F, so you need to take the wort temperature as well and then adjust the gravity. It should come with a paper showing how to correct for temp.

55 is too cold for ale yeast. Keep it upstairs and at 72 or warmer.

Do you expect to loose power alot? If not you can just get a fermentation heater that wraps around your bucket or carboy. They are designed for just this purpose.

Probably to keep the floating "dome" piece from becoming a projectile during an aggressive fermentation. :D

Nothing wrong with doing both. If you have a keg with a co2 supply you don't need to add sugar to the beer that's going into the keg. The best way to prime for bottling is to either use carbonation drops or to use a bottling bucket where you add a sterilized solution of sugar to the beer and...

Bierfrau?

Since you're doing all grain there is no point in using carapils, dextrine content can be increased by higher mash temps.

Been there too. Make sure to use teflon thread tape wherever you have threads in your gas system. Its okay to keep your co2 tank in the cold.

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