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Briess Carapils will add body without adding flavor or color and can be steeped. The flaked barley and rye need to be mashed with a base malt. I have used steeped carapils often to improve body.

I just started partial mashing also and I use a 12 qt pot as a mash tun - separate from my brew pot. It fits in my oven so that I can keep the temp steady for an hour. I use a big (24" x 24") bag to hold grains and a thermometer to check water temp.

You can buy munich malt extract from several websites. You can use partial mash techniques to mash vienna malt, all without any new equipment except maybe a thermometer and a bag to hold the vienna malt grains. Partial mashing is easy.

Since you are actually doing a partial mash I would follow the directions from Deathbrewer's thread on "Easy Partial Mash Brewing (with pics)" at https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/easy-partial-mash-brewing-pics-75231/

If it was me I would start at around 70 F, watch for bubbling to begin, and then move it to a 62 degree environment. I would also make a starter since it is liquid yeast.

(I am assuming you mean you brewed the wort at 180-205 F and used malt extract) First - don't worry so much about color unless you are entering it into a contest. Did you use liquid extract and any grains? Use pilsner dried malt extract for the lightest color and no grains except maybe for...

Beer Tools Pro will re-calculate the FG if you change the attenuation percentage.

More detailed information on yeast attenuation can be found here: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Understanding_Attenuation

The potential for the FG would be based on the potential attenuation value of the yeast and the starting gravity of fermentables. This potential of course implies that there are perfect conditions for yeast growth such as temperature, oxygen, etc. I would say a formula such as: FG = SGf *...

1. Designing Great Beers by Ray Daniels 2. http://www.howtobrew.com/ 3. try or buy recipe designing software like BeerToolsPro or BeerSmith 4. become obsessed with designing the perfect beer

bottling after 3 weeks in the primary would be my choice. Moving beer to a secondary increases the chances for oxidation.

Your recipe hits the mark for a robust porter according to BeerToolsPro and it looks good to me.

How To Brew by John Palmer ... http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter6-4-1.html is a great start on learning the different strains.

What type of beer are you shooting for? Porter, American Dark Ale? Can't go wrong with Safale US-05, a dry yeast, easy to pitch, just sprinkle it into the MrBeer keg on top of the cooled wort. Yeast choice is one of the biggest factors in how a beer tastes so it would be a great idea to read...

It's the volume. I too noticed how much longer a water bath takes to chill a 4 gallon brew as opposed to a 3 gallon brew. I am planning on buying an immersion chiller soon.

5% of the total DME+grains. What yeast are you planning to use?

It will be fine. Are you boiling 5 or more gallons? Next time: You may need to reduce the size of your boil if your stove is not hot enough.

The amount of sparge water is more flexible than what is used for mashing. I try to use at least 1.25 - 2 quarts per pound. Since I don't do full boils yet (no wort chiller) I limit the amount of wort in my brew kettle to 4 gallons.