Search results

You can reboil the wort for 5 minutes tomorrow.

Yes, maltodextrin adds to the FG because it is not fermentable. One pound is a lot.

No Yes I do this all the time but my water is drinkable without filtering (It does have some chlorine in it) I treat the water the day before or at least 30 minutes before brewing. I store the treated water to be used in the boil in my fermentor. Water to be boiled does not need to be...

http://www.beersmith.com/blog/2009/10/18/seasonal-beer-brewing/

There is also nothing wrong in starting out with a lidded bucket as your fermentor. Until you start kegging you will need a bottling bucket and bottles or better yet look into the Tap-A-Draft system.

If you are planning to brew on your stove a full boil may not be possible if your stove burners are not strong enough to boil 5 gallons. You can still get a big pot and do partial boils. I do partial boils all the time on my stove and there is nothing wrong with my beer.

The reason to cool quickly is to prevent DMS. Just pitch the yeast when it gets to 70.

A few concerns... Your stove may not be able to boil 5 gallons. A 6 gallon pot may not be able to handle a 5 gallon boil. If you don't have a wort chiller it may take hours to cool more than 3 gallons.

I usually use spring water from the store or boil water the day before to remove chlorine.

I used Simpson's peated malt, maybe yours is less smokey.

in your equation r should be 1.25 not .31

I was hoping for a subtle hint of smoke in this ale but 3 ounces of peat smoked malt per 5 gallons is just too much for that. It would be fine for a smoked beer where the smokiness mildly dominates. I think I may have stumbled upon a recipe for what could be called "Hot Scotchie Ale".

That's fine

Is one muslin bag too small to hold all the grains? If so mix all the grains in a bowl then add half to each of 2 bags. This way you will get pale malt in each bag. The pale malt is the base malt and has the enzymes needed to mash the other grains. If you can get a paint straining bag from...

I would strongly suggest that if you don't have a CO2 tank and regulator that you add the sugar to the beer and naturally carbonate it that way, then get a keg charger to dispense it. You can find a keg charger at...

I think there is a valve in the system that only allows the air pressure to travel one way, the poppit valve. I am quite sure you'll need a CO2 bottle to dispense.

It's the same recipe except for the dry hopping.

Some brewers prefer DME over LME, especially for lighter colored beers. "brick"? It should be powder.

Put it on.

Very low flocculating yeast are the usual culprit in cloudy beers like hefeweizen (this means they don't drop out readily)