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Hey Fuzze: If you uncheck the Active checkbox in the Controllers dialog for any assigned controllers, this will suppress controller processing. On my unit, it has a more rudimentary cooling unit with analog controls, so CellarWarden handles temperature and humidity regulation. As these cooling...

:mug:

Good catch, FuzzeWuzze! I've modified the image and description to show a 4.7k resistor, not a 470 ohm resistor. I've been working on a hardware watchdog circuit for this, and my brain was stuck on that design!

I've edited the image to remove the jumper so it's clearer. There are several hardware examples in the help files for CellarWarden, but I wanted to post a simple controller configuration to show how this could be set up using a common relay board made for Arduinos.

Yeah, I had mentioned in the post to remove the jumper, but I agree that was confusing. I've edited the image to remove the jumper. I hope that helps.

Here's a simple controller implementation with a single DS18B20 and a 2-relay board. This could be used to control both a refrigerator compressor and a fermentor heater. The DS18B20 is set up on the 1-wire bus on GPIO 4, with a 4.7k resistor connected between Vcc (3.3V) and the data line on the...

I'd be curious to hear how this works out.

Actually, I think you could do this by setting up two independent controllers to control heating and cooling of your fermentor using different actuators. You would set up the two controllers to run independent profiles, with one controller set to control the heating actuator and one to control...

I'm not exactly following what you mean by a "free rise." If you mean that you want to keep the temperature in a range, then hysteresis mode will provide for that. For example, if the profile calls for 65F and the temperature is 63F, if you set your hysteresis value for the heating actuator to...

I have just updated this application to provide multi-chamber controllers, so it can be used to control fermentation, but I posted this in the wrong forum here: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=579628

I agree that crashes on the RPi could be problematic, although I have not encountered any difficulty with this after a few weeks of testing. Nevertheless, I am working on implementing a "watchdog timer" method to force a reboot if the RPi becomes unstable. Controllers resume from where they left...

Yes, you can do both. Each controller can be single- or dual-sided, and acts independently of other controllers. So, if you had multiple fermentors in say a chest freezer and you wanted to control each fermentor temperature using FermWrap heaters, you would just set up individual heat only...

I released the original CellarWarden application for monitoring temperature and humidity on a Raspberry Pi (RPi) about a year ago. I've recently updated CellarWarden to provide controller functions, including PID, hysteresis and manual output via the GPIO pins on the RPi. This app was inspired...

That looks great! :mug: What PCB design software did you use?

Perhaps it's not obvious in the picture, but the second wire is supposed to serve as a ground wire and it grounds the aluminum stock that holds the ignitor in place. Even with this grounding arrangement, it can still produce a shock, particularly on dry Southern California days. Incidentally...

Yeah, I'd thought of using a piezo ignitor, but I do like the easy pushbutton kind because they can fire a pulsating spark until the flame is achieved. With a piezo ignitor, you would have to keep pushing on it (with some force) until the flame started up (which could lead to some rather scary...

No problems with the wire melting because the heat is directed up away from the burners and the wire is located below the burner. The PVC box has gotten a little melted, but not badly. If I were to do it again, I'd replace that with a metal single gang outlet box. The only issue I've noticed is...

You can validate that your sensor is wired properly by wiring it into the two sensor terminals and then powering it up (before flashing with the STC1000+ firmware). If wired properly, you will see the temperature of the probe (in Celsius). If this works, you are good to go for flashing.

A 2000W element on a 120V circuit is going to pull between 16-17 amps, so you are likely to pop the circuit breaker with that element. It would be best to stick with a lower wattage 120V rated element, or use a 5500W (230V) element run with a single 120V leg, which would pull around 12 amps...

Yes, it is possible that the source of infection was elsewhere, but I also have brewed over 100 batches without incident (mostly using White Labs liquid yeast from vials). I'm fairly certain the infection was present in the starter based on the somewhat funky smell. Of course, it could be that I...