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When I lived in Alaska I mashed in the house and boiled outside.

Up til my last beer I would gravity feed from the kettle to the fermenter through a counterflow chiller. I never filter before the chiller and all goes through. I just recently bought a cheep pump of Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G305PK0/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20) that I...

Wow! I might not be smart enough to make Beer.

Interesting idea. I'm trying to think of a way to use the Anova to maintain my mash temperature throughout the mash.

Nottingham, US-05 and S-04

I have always used a 6.5 gallon bucket. No problems

I have back sweetened Ginger Beer with 4 cups of table sugar when I kegged it. I mixed the sugar with 4 cups of hot water and transferred the 5.5 ABV ginger beer on top of it. At kegerator temperatre the yeast is pretty much dormant. I don’t know if it makes a difference but I use wine yeast to...

My last BIAB, no sparge, squeeze the bag mash efficiency was 84% with a total efficiency of 75% as calculated on BS3. My mash efficiency improved when I bought my own mill and set it at .025”.

I should have mentioned that I do squeeze the bag to get most of the liquid out of it.

Agreed

I don’t increase my grain bill for BIAB, just use a finer crush. Maybe I’m mistaken but the OP said he used a Wilser Bag so I’m assuming BIAB. BIAB using a .050 crush will result in very low efficiency.

Set your gap to .025. I get 84% mash efficiency with NO sparge. Your Wilser bag is plenty fine mesh and you will have no problem with that fine a setting. Some brewers on this site go even finer.

I’ve poured it back in with no bad results. I use a bucket so now I sanitize my hydrometer and put it directly in the bucket and take my reading and remove it. I only take two readings, I check the OG before I pitch the yeast and then check the FG two weeks later just before I transfer it to...

I always have a taste of my beer when I bottle or keg it. I don’t think it’s a real good indication of what the cooled, carbonated and aged beer will taste like. Sometimes the sample tastes really good, other times it tastes alright, other times it’s “I hope this improves.”

I have never used nutrients so I have nothing to offer on this topic. I use S-04, US-05 and Nottingham for most of my beers. I have rehydrated, I have sprinkled the dry yeast on top of the wort and sealed the bucket, I have added dry yeast, sealed the lid and shook the daylights out of it...

I’m using 12’ with 12 psi in a similar setup and it’s working fine.

I get 80 to 82% mash efficiency doing full volume mash. I mash for 90 minutes then squeeze the bag real good. I mash with the full volume calculation less 1/2 gallon. That way I can add water after the mash and squeeze to hit my preboil volume. Or, if I miscalculated, I and I’m already at the...

Time and boiling will remove chlorine but not chloramine. Campdon tablets will remove both chlorine and chloramine. See linked below or google for more: https://lifefermented.wordpress.com/2013/05/19/brew-tips-chlorine-removal-with-campden-tablets/

https://www.mudomaha.com/search?search_api_fulltext=/water Your profile says your from Omaha, the link above is for the Omaha City water report. Using the data for your area and one of the brewing water programs you can make adjustments to your brewing water. There are several free programs...

I moved from a place with my own well to a place with city water. My recipes that were great before were now awful. I as ready to quit. I started to research water chemistry here on this forum. I think that getting rid of the chlorine and adjusting the mash pH have had the greatest effect on...