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Not sure exactly what you're goin for but these might fit the bill https://www.morebeer.com/products/beer-gas-quick-connect-inline-set-shutoff.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMImKzlnb7_5QIVGh6tBh1qTgv1EAQYASABEgIwzvD_BwE And an article on using w the beer gun...

hilarious thread in general, especially the parts about the negatives of haze inducing oats circa 2009

Nice work, I would love to see it in action . Keep us posted

This is specifically why circulation is so important to me in biab/single vessel. A high flow rate will help balance and sustain even mash temps in the mash pipe. Keep in mind flow rate will be affected by size of crush and drainage ability etc.

There is an episode of the brulosophy podcast that discusses Shellhammers study in detail. Definitely worth a listen.

Use a dental pick to get under the tape and tear it off

I have really been enjoying these "new school" clear IPAs and APAs that have little to no crystal malt and very low/balanced bitterness. There are several offerings from Alvarado street, Beachwood, and PizzaPort lately that fit this description very well and I would like to try and brew...

https://www.williamsbrewing.com/Top-Draw-Beer-Pick-Up-Tube-P4643.aspx this is where I got mine, but it looks like their out of stock atm. You can also just use a small section of dip tube, silicon tubing and get creative with the float. ie: sanitized pill bottle etc

Yeah carb caps are awesome, I use them for everything. Removal of the poppets is not necessary if you cold crash and avoid the bottom trub like I said, but it cant hurt. One more thing to add is that I cut several slits in the small aluminum pick up tube that attaches to the float, that way if...

I use a regular unmodified ball lock on the liquid out post that has had the poppet removed during fermentation. Then during cold crash I hook up the gas side and run1-2 psi to prevent suck back. After everything is settled (24-48 hrs) I will turn off gas and crack the fermonster lid to bleed...

I always cold crash to 36f for a minimum of 24 hours which settles most everything out. As far as pressure, it usually only takes 3-5psi to get siphon going into keg with a nice moderate flow that wont disturb anything. I also removed the poppets from both the liquid out post (on fermonster lid)...

I used the entire can, but my intention was to have a softer mouthfeel beer and opaque purple appearance, which it was. If your going for a more traditional feeling clearer beer, I would use 1/3-1/2 of a can.

I think you win lol

Just do the same thing with the starsan. Fill up a keg with some, pressurize and run through lines. Quick and easy.

Bingo. It was the YVH dual pack, I figured I would give them a go after reading some good reviews similar to yours. I will keep you posted on my results.

I just did an Idaho 7 and Idaho gem wcipa, waiting to see how it turns out. I have heard tons of good things about them.

you can also consider hot fermenting yeast strains like kveik

I use the vinyl shirt stickers made by avery and a laser printer. They are cheap, come with their own free online design studio, and they dont run or tear when wet.

4lbs pils 4lbs 2row 4lbs white wheat Canned at 3vols on cannular

I tested mine up to 20psi with water,and had a tiny leak at the spigot. I would prob not go over 10psi. You only need a couple psi to get things moving and/or prevent suckback during coldcrash