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They give you everything you need on the website and if you have a bottle you can use the dregs, which really gives their beer's their specific character.

Pedio will lower the acidity more then Lacto will, but it will only go so far. Pedio actually will continue to produce acid (depending on how much food it has) until it kills itself, so that's it's upper limit. If you want it to be more acidic then you will need to use acetobactor as it can...

In theory being a spirit barrel it should be sterile, however, there is always a risk with barrel aging. If you're going to store the barrel for two months before filling it I would fill it with cold water and lower the pH of the water using acid to close to 2 pH to prevent bacterial growth. If...

My process was to put the beans (whole, not crushed or ground) in a sanitized hop bag and put it in the keg. After 24 hours I took a sample and decided it needed more time. I removed them after 36 hours. My beer was 8.3% ABV and it is showing no signs of infection. At 15% you'll be fine. Is...

I've never added fresh bugs after adding fruit. One batch was 20 months old when I added fruit. It took a couple of days for any noticeable activity but when it did get going it was a low slow fermentation. Just give it some time, they just may need to wake up again.

Two barrels next to each other could be a concern, but yeast and bacteria are not going to go through glass or plastic and unless your fermentation is really violent and you have open systems, you'll be fine. In theory with an air lock your beer is in a closed system. If my "beer" room is cool...

I've done it multiple ways. I've added champagne yeast (which is the fastest way to carbonate), I've added yeast from a new fermenting sour, and I've added no fresh yeast. All times I add sugar targeting around 3 volumes of CO2. They've all carbonated eventually, some just take longer the...

Three months for bottling conditioning? 3711 has a fast turn around so you could be drinking it in a month and a half or so if you so please.

I've done cold brew and I've added beans to secondary. I was completely underwhelmed by the cold pressed. The "dry beaning" provided tons of coffee aroma and flavor, exactly what I was looking for. I think the alcohol extraction helps. The way I see it is why should I be watering down my beer.

This is what I did for my Helles, which happened to be my first decoction and lager. I think it turned out pretty awesome. I used the Hochkurz decoction method. Edit: I would personally back off on the aroma hops, unless you're targeting that, but typically a Helles would have a low hop profile.

I think the secret is years of dialing in your recipe and beer. The big thing I get from HF beers is that they all have perfect mouthfeel, IPA, Stouts, Saisons, etc, but they are all different. I think a lot of it has to do with his water treatment and pH along with fine tuning bottle...

The recipe above is using ale yeast so probably standard ale fermentation. If you're planning on using a lager yeast strain you'll need to use a different schedule. What strain are you planning on using? If you use anything but a lager yeast it's not really a Pilsner because an ale yeast will...

If you want the most coffee aroma and flavor I recommend "dry-beaning" in your keg or to secondary if you're bottling. Taste it after 24 hours to see if its where you want it.

The best way to prevent bottle bombs would be to measure your gravity, then wait a few weeks and measure again. If there is not drop then you're probably safe to bottle. You could also target low end carbonation in the event that you spark extra fermentation again and your gravity drops a little...

I just saw this thread but thought I would throw in my two cents. I just recently bottled a saison that I brewed about 3 months ago. I wanted it to be dry and slightly tart. From the sample I took it finished at 1.004 and had a nice acidity to it. I fermented it in a 5 gallon barrel I have...

You'll know after it ferments. Lacto generally works pretty quickly. As far as lowering the pH it really depends what you want to end up drinking. Other then when I brewed my Berliner, I haven't lowered my mash pH dramatically for Brett beers, but I don't want my Brett beers to be acidic because...

I've brewed two beers with Brett-C. One was a pale ale, so on the lower side of the IBU scale and the other was a wheat beer to show my homebrew group Brett is not "scary." The pale ale was hazy but after some time it cleared up brilliantly. The wheat beer on the hand didn't because, well...

I'll have to double check to see how my Brix correlate to SG on my refractometer. It does have both scales. I will say that my refractometer looks like this.

For the sake of comparing refractometers I'll list where that corrected values for my refractometer with the brix values you listed 8.8 = 1.039 16.2 = 1.073 15.9 = 1.072 30.7 = 1.147 These are the values that I would get after calculation and using the corrective factor that I...

It could still be that your Ca level was too low. If you have soft water you generally need to add minerals because of a lack of them. Your pH was also probably too high. Even with a low buffering capacity, pale malts will only drop the mash pH so far.