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And I'm sure that you aren't splashing all over the place while bottling and that you aren't keeping "3 years of hop freshness". If you oxidize fermented beer it will, among other things, greatly reduce the hop flavor very quickly. With the answers on process from the OP oxidation seems to be...

Those commercial bottles likely were bottle to the industrial standard of having a low ppb range of dissolved oxygen. Post fermentation oxygen is definitely detrimental to all beers. A home brewer bottling from a bucket is going to have a hard time getting into the ppm range.

What water profile are you building the water back up to? I'd loose the secondary for all recipes unless there is a specific reason for it to be there, it's just contributing to post fermentation oxidation.

If you have to boil and then cool water to dilute the Proper Starter...... then what is the point of the Proper Starter? I would think it was to eliminate the boil and cooling of the starter.

Ghetto version. To make adjustments I drain the excess water. :rolleyes: I keep meaning to make a permanent solution... but it works.

Revisions typically follow a Form, Fit and Function rule. Both of these thermometers have the same form, fit and function and can be swapped back and forth with no changes. They are likely stocked in the same place with the same part number. Possibly just different suppliers. A V2 and V3 of a...

None. :goat:

Looks like the back side of welds to me. Doesn't look like it should affect function in any way.

How do you know it was untapped? I'd call the beer a loss and say you paid the money for an empty keg.

I just fill until the beer starts coming out of the CO2 in port that is venting through sanitizer. There are also check valves that stop flow once you reach this point...

Have you pulled it apart and cleaned it? Most of the PRV are plastic, swap with another and see if it's the plastic valve threads or the metal lid threads. Then swap a lid and repeat. Replace whatever part fails

You're overcarbed now. Hooking the CO2 to the Beer OUT post at 5-10 psi and then pulling the pressure release 10-15 times will reduce the volumes of CO2 dissolved in the beer (the large bubbles of CO2 bubbling through the beer pull the 'overcarb' out of solution). Keep doing this in batches...

Yes that is what I meant. I wouldn't go through the effort of using triclamps on a ball valve either. They don't have to be cleaned enough that I've done anything about them.... but if I was building again I would use triclamp butterflies on just the boil kettle. As well as tri clamps on both...

Yea, I would open close, reverse flow etcetera. Not a big deal to pull them apart every month or so, but if I did it again I would use triclamps on the brew kettle and on the heating elements.

Could your poppet be closed or the oring on the inside of the out post be leaking?

"Crud" that I'm talking about gets behind the gasket and around the ball on the valve. I haven't had success cleaning this with a PBW or acid recirculation, every once in a while I just need to pull the NPT valves.

Why? A proper pipeline is easier, more reliable, cheaper and repeatable. Seven day turn around is faster than a commercial operation and they are looking at equipment time being income. Anecdotally if I try one of my beers without having about a 2 week+ conditioning rest after kegging I am...

Or in the last 20 years the hobby has developed and the techniques have caught up to commercial practices. While some items may not make a noticeable, or an economic, difference to some brewers the majority of the best practices are not "opinions and theories" but known science. Brewing is...

🤨:bigmug:

My NPT style ball valves always get gunk around the ball that needs cleaning every 3 brewers or so while the tri-clamp valves only need cleaning once a year.