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Adding a bleed port is a great solution and what I did. You can also hook everything up like you would to recirculate. Open all of the valves except the return valve. With the pump off disconnect the return line. This gives the air in the system somewhere to 'go' and normally the wort will...

Choose the actual dimensions from here. McMaster-Carr I would think that they are standard 1.5" TC gaskets. The outlet size doesn't matter to the gasket.

I also bet for the cost of getting a good TIG you could buy a non clad Blichmann Kettle and do one of the pull through without the risk. And sell the existing to get some money back. Of course the pull through will be 'slightly' bumped while the TIG could be completely smooth.

The bottom of that kettle is triclad, ie 3 layers, not easy to add fittings to the bottom.

A couple years ago I modified two of my older kegs to have a home made carbing lid like above. I used them as a brite tank for carbonating, conditioning and to clear the beer so that once it was transferred into a keg the keg could be moved without kicking up sediment. So that I could take kegs...

Good! I agree with everyone that said to skip secondary. For almost every style it is not necessary. Slow force carb is good, natural carb is even better.

People that are boiling with the lid on probably have a steam condenser. Unless you have one of those do not boil with the lid on

Whats the serving pressure & temp?

How did you carb the keg? Not necessary.

It will leak on the floor if it gets into the regulator. Most manifolds and some/most regulators have check valves to prevent this from happening but some do not.

I've never had a beer that didn't improve after at least 2 weeks in the keg, even if burst carbonated.

This would still only back up beer if the regulator pressure is set to less then the keg pressure.

https://installationpartssupply.com/Soft-Drink-Carbonation-Tester-Generic-Model-2701G_p_4384.html

I like 'my method' :) 1. Connect gas line, set regulator to serving pressure at conditioning temperature that corresponds to the CO2 volumes at serving temperature. 2. Sit on both hands and wait two to four full, agonizing weeks. 3. Enjoy a perfectly carbonated beer, every damned time.

That should only happen when the gas is off (or out) though, if it is still on new CO2 should replace what dissolves until the beer is at equilibrium for the temp.

Typically the target pitch rate is 0.75 (million cells/(mL × °P) for Ales and 1.5 (million cells/(mL × °P) for Lagers. Determining how much yeast is in a pack is more subjective but there are several estimate models in different calculators. Overpitching is TYPICALLY better than underpitching...

Gasses don't mix like liquids because they expand to fill the container. If you have a 500ml bottle that contains only O2 and CO2, no matter what the ratio of the two components you have 500 ml of both O2 and CO2. (This doesn't seem correct to most people at first glance, but if you had a...

In this case you can kinda think of the keg as a growler 1/3 full of beer. You fill it the rest of the way with water, shake it up so that it is evenly mixed then pour out so that only 1/3 of the growler has liquid in it. Fill it back up, stir, pour out to 1/3. Keep repeating. Eventually you...

How do you carb the kegs? (With stone, but at the same pressure/temp?) It sounds like the kegs are carbed above the serving pressure/temp equilibrium so that when you let them sit CO2 comes out of solution and raises the keg pressure above the regulator pressure.

RIS (***pay no attention to the ceiling hole) ***