Search results

I've forgotten to open it twice, but never had an issue with it shutting off.

**** you are right.... but it's never fallen over. 😂 .....it also has exposed nails cause it's scrap. Was supposed to be for one brew until I did the plumbing but has been like that for ~8 months.

If it falls to the right that is the direction that the valve shuts off.

https://www.amazon.com/PureSec-Plastic-Fitting-Adjustable-Refrigerator/dp/B01MU6YQGA/ref=sr_1_10?dchild=1&keywords=ro+shut+float+valve+1%2F4&qid=1607546426&sr=8-10

Use a yeast calc such as: http://www.yeastcalculator.com/ Or http://www.brewunited.com/yeast_calculator.php

The adapter I linked above is "beer thread" female to male. This thread is -4 JIC.

If you are hitting target boil off rates, then the targeted amount of boil off is being removed from the wort. DMS and other "nasties" that leave at lower temperatures then boil can then be assumed to be removed at the same rate. I do not know why their is insistence that somehow the wort...

The Male Flare fittings used in a lot of brewing equipment is a -4 JIC fitting. That looks to be what is going into the shank. You can use a 2406-04-04 to add about an inch. https://www.amazon.com/Brennan-Industries-2406-04-04-Non-Swivel-Straight/dp/B01BHVRT3G

Neither would work well as you oxidized the beer by drinking/pouring the first half. I've used CO2 to flush the headspace in wine bottles to save for the next day..... but typically I just drink the whole bottle 😂 :rolleyes:

OK

Neither of those quotes are from the source I quoted (Brewing Science and Practice). Oh, its from the comments to the Spike video, not the textbook. These contradict. You don't know what you are talking about. Be one of the people that ignore science and established practice/textbooks for...

The design discussed does not drip back into the kettle. No it doesn't. With a condenser you will need to turn the element cycle time down. For someone that hasn't tried this you have a very strong opinion. This is incorrect. DMS Study Vapour condensers, which are widely used, produce hot...

You likely need an inline flow restrictor, paired with the flow control faucet. https://www.kegerators.com/equipment/inline-flow-controller/ https://www.kegerators.com/equipment/flow-control-shank-adaptor/

I have a vent hood, and like day_trippr says close the door to the bar/brewery when in use and it does not affect the rest of the house. The vent hood is good if you want to vent any thing else as well (chemical smell, smoking cigars or misc.) However, if the steam condenser was had been...

Lid on during cooling is good. You don't want the lid on during BOILING to allow DMS to escape. Stirring the wort during cooling is fine, when we whirlpool we just do this stirring with a pump. Oxygen addition after cooling to pitch temperature is OK and DESIRED. The yeast want oxygen to...

When it's hot I cool water in the empty conical down to ~35F with the glycol chiller a day before brewing and then use the water to cool once the wort gets below 90-100F. Then drain the water and CIP sanitizer into the fermenter while the wort is resting 10 minutes after the cooling/whirpool.

You can't change the definition of a technical word just because you want to. Sterile means 100% clean of all organisms regardless of use. This morning, I walked into my office, poured out the left over coffee in my mug, rinsed with water and refiled. This is clean enough for my coffee cup...

I don't think it has been asked, what are you fermenting in?

Dry hopping can add some taste but does not add bitterness, it is primarily for aroma. If I was you I would brew a batch or two without dry hopping while trying to isolate the flavor issue, then work on the dry hop procedure.

Sanitize Sanitizing is the reduction of microorganisms .....to a point considered not harmful to humans. It does not guarantee a kill rate of 100 percent, but rather to a minimum kill ratio of 99.9 percent. Sterilize Sterilization is the complete inactivation of all organisms: fungi, bacteria...