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Done. Surprised that there were no specific questions about HomebrewCon. I've been to several and enjoyed them all, but will never attend a mini-conference at GABF.

Ahh, you guys are rousing memories of my teen days with friends, Ohio country roads and cases of returnable Pabst or Strohs 3.2% red caps. Couldn't get the "real stuff" until age 21, but to be perfectly honest I couldn't tell much difference anyway. Now I have the urge to brew a Back-to-the...

Totally agree. I've used Beer Gun and WilliamsWarn fillers in the past, but get the most consistent results with the Tapcooler. It's quick and easy to set up, operate and clean .... a very convenient little gadget.

Box of camlock fittings from Bobby at brewhardware.com.

Good advice. System efficiency, boil-off rates, etc. will probably much different than with your home system.

Curious. Rather than tinker with a known recipe, has anyone tried diluting a tripel or golden strong to a lower ABV at bottling? Just wondering if the outcome is the same as with recipe scaling ... other than the fact that you'd end up with more bottles.

My wife taught in the Czech Republic for a year and brought back the love of kolaches and houska, which she makes occasionally as part of her bread baking efforts. No surprise that she also returned with a love of Czech pils.

Hope this is a good copy of 3068 as I've yet to find a dry weizen yeast that I really like.

I've used Imperial L13 (under 12-14 lb. pressure) at temperatures in the low 70's and it made nice lagers. Is pressure absolutely necessary? ... maybe not; it's just been my SOP for warm lagers in recent years. Regardless, I would use the wet T-shirt trick ... years ago the wet-T and WY2124...

Two and a half minutes of totality in the back yard with a homegrown IPA. Photo from wife's iPhone.

I've always fined in the keg. Leave as much behind as you can during transfer.

I've done warm fermented lagers (usually with wet t-shirt and fan, esp. when summer basement temp is around 70F), along with pressure fermented and traditional cold fermented. All make acceptable beers with the 34/70 family of yeast strains. I do find, however, that when I have brews of the same...

I'd say start with a straight, low ABV American wheat beer. If that's not quite enough, you can experiment with purees and flavorings by the glass until you hit the right combination. I made a grapefruit wheat with the puree passed out by Amoretti at NHC-Providence, and it remains one of my...

German pilsner currently in primary.

True, and I get that information and packaging from Hops Direct as well. Most of my homebrewing friends (and me to some degree) work in small volumes and rely on the LHBS or the online HB retailers for a few ounces at a time. Packaging may be OK, exact acid content may or may not be listed...

The biggest problem I see in purchasing hops is that you typically don't know the year of harvest or how they were handled after. Makes estimation a real crap shoot.

I've tried several. Started with the Beer Gun (ya, can be adapted into a counter presssure but I didn't), but had a hard time controlling foam. Then to a Williams-Warn. The WW was pricey but worked OK. Then a crack developed in the filling head. It was past warranty and replacement required a...

I dry hop with pellets in a stainless tea ball that rests on the keg bottom for the entire time of consumption. Have never noted any overt grassy flavors.

I've directly pitched dry Diamond into a pressure fermentation of 15 psi. No problems. Repitching on the yeast cake will require O2.

I used to do the Australian no-chill thing in the winter. Hot wort into a sanitized, tightly sealed jerry can and left on the deck overnight. Of course, you don't have control of the weather and the ultimate temperature of the wort, but I never had an infection and extended settling time + temp...