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I believe this is so, but I still don't have the conditions to control the fermentation temperature, so I went the other way - I use yeast that produces good beer in a wide temperature range (15 - 35 degrees Celsius). With this process, I have significantly limited the styles of beer that I can...

After about a hundred batches of beer at around 5% ABV, I concluded that two weeks is enough for fermentation with all temperature changes, so I haven't even measured FG for a few years. Raising the temperature beyond the upper limit specified for a specific yeast (especially the first 4-5 days...

As with everything else, the one who very first made it and introduced it to others gave it a name - BIAB.

So beer helps prevent dementia, but not if it's in an aluminum can. Great, mine's in glass bottles.

I've seen that chart before, but my measured OG matches the calculation. I use BrewMate and instead of 23L (6 gallons for 5 gallons of bottled beer) I calculate as if my batch size is 46L plus 8L of water loss (remains in the grain and evaporates during the boil). My mash efficiency is 70%...

Yes, Irish moss is not a chemical. I didn't notice any difference in clarity while using it, but I believe it can help. To use natural conditions for cold crashing, you need to take the fermenter outside. I live in a warmer climate so I don't have the conditions for cold crashing outside either.

With a 120V power distribution system and a 4500W heater, the calculation says that 37.5A is needed. If 240V is used, less than 19A is needed, which means that a 30A plug would be sufficient.

The BIAB method has no problems with mash tun lautern, and sparge is not commonly used. With larger amounts of grain, I only have a problem with the heavier bag and longer squeezing the bag. As long as there is at least 2.5 times more water than grain (2.5 liters of water per kilogram of grain)...

Yes, of course it is possible to make a BIAB for such large quantities, but, as we see here, not without a crane and a bag made of strong material.

I am currently brewing a double-strength wort that I dilute with water after cooling and then pitch yeast and that works perfectly. I came up with this idea after I read this Brulosophy test. This saves energy, time, water and the size of the brewing pot, without sacrificing quality.

I don't use any chemicals and I don't have the equipment for to cold crash, but I do strain the wort when pouring into the fermenter through a thick strainer and I have a very clear beer. True, this doesn't work with dry hopped beers.

Two separate bags would work, but it's also twice the work and equipment. Although, I think that 65 liters is too much to lift without a crane. In addition, it is 9000W of mains power. I don't know how it works in Canada. In Europe, they would need three-phase current for that power.

My beer costs me half the price of industrial lager for the masses, and almost four times cheaper than craft beer, with which I can almost compare the quality of my beer. Plus, I have a quality hobby and that good feeling of using something made with my own hands. Plus, I don't have to carry...

BIAB is really the simplest beer brewing system, but I don't know if it works with 130 liters. Instead of a bag, you should use a metal strainer and some kind of power-driven lifting and straining system. Also, I think the 4500W heater power is too weak for 130 liters of wort. I have 2000W for...

Yes, I definitely need to work on cold side aeration and it's well worth the effort.

Here is a good post about hot side aeration: The bottom line is that hot side aeration does exist and does cause some changes in beer quality, but they are negligible. In translation, it's not worth the effort.

I should add that I once made a beer with a third of crystal malt with this yeast and it was too sweet even months after bottling. I think, as already mentioned here, the fear of the diastatucus gene is overblown.

This post is a bit older, but I just found it. I consider myself experienced with Belle Saison dry yeast as I have been using it exclusively for a few years now as I have no control over the fermentation temperature. If you make a starter from it or harvest it from a previous batch (overpitch)...

That seems quite expensive to me because in my country 27L Fermzilla Gen 3 costs 170 euros, which would be half the price. I plan to get a fermentation fridge in the future and then I would get such a fermenter.

I use the same Vinator and disinfect the bottles with Starsan before bottling.