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Understood. My only concern would be flavors from the residual krausen gunk, but attempting to clean that probably has a higher risk of introducing contamination than just leaving well alone. How many cycles have you done with the same yeast cake? Have you ever left it sealed in the fermenter...

Both of my batches have been 5G BIAB ... you need a big pot and you'll get much lower than normal efficiency (55-60% instead of 75-80% for me), but the results are spectacular!

So do people simply drain the beer from the fermenter and pour the new wort straight in, or try to clean the krausen debris etc first, or move the yeast to a clean fermenter before adding the wort?

As anyone who supported the GrowlerWerks uKeg kickstarter knows, delivery of the rewards has been painfully slow. After 2+ years only 50% of the 10,000 rewards have been distributed, even while the uKegs themselves are widely available through retail outlets. The monthly email updates are...

At 75% efficiency this looks like an OG of 1.095. With a FG of 1.012 that's 92% attenuation and ~11% ABV. The real deal is 8.6% ABV, though I can't find the O/FG offhand. What am I missing? ---------------------- Update: if I change from 5G to 6G in the fermentor I get a much more...

Mine is just attached with the freezer hinges (so the whole collar lifts open), and I don't have any problems with movement.

With a s'mores donut at Fieldwork. Breakfast of champions.

Imagine making 5G of 1.050 wort. This would require roughly - 10lb Grain (at 70% efficiency) - 7.0lb LME - 5.5lb DME For an order-of-magnitude cost estimate, let's use the bulk cost at MoreBeer: - Grain: $38/50lb = $0.75/lb - LME: $27/9lb = $3.00/lb - DME: $170/50lb = $3.40/lb So just the malt...

The only danger is oxidation if air is being sucked back in during the cold crash. In particular the higher solubility of CO2 in beer at lower temperatures causes suck-back well beyond just the shrinkage of the gas in the headspace. However it takes days to equilibrate, so with a short cold...

As was pointed out in another thread on this topic, the biggest source of suck-back during cold crashing is the increased solubility of CO2 at lower temperature (if you give it time to reach equilibrium). I put together a little spreadsheet that lets you see how much you'll suck back here - it's...

After visiting various hardware stores to try to figure out how to connect a gas-side quick disconnect to a bung, I suddenly realized I that all my Speidels come with tap fittings! Close the tap, connect a balloon full of CO2, swap the whole thing in for the airlock, open the tap, and we're all...

I think you have 4 choices: - juggle space to fit a blow-off bucket. - use fermencap to suppress the krausen. - trade it in for a 6.5G carboy. - keep it for secondary/aging.

Yeah - I'm waiting for a 128 and they've been slooooooooooooooooooooow.

With a bit of luck GrowlerWerks will actually get round to fulfilling my 2014 kickstarter reward some time in 2017.

Addressing the other end of the question, you should never be steeping grains in a boiling kettle! I doubt that's what you meant, but better safe than tannin.

Or go no-chill and avoid the problem altogether. Just dump the boiling wort into one of these, seal and invert to double-super ensure a sterile interior, and leave it overnight to cool.

With 2 burners and 3 15G keggles I'd do a 10G and 5G batch, heat the sparge water for the 10G batch in with the mash water for the 5G batch while the 10G batch was mashing, and transfer it to the 3rd keggle before mashing the 5G batch.

Many possible reasons, including different amount of grain, different boil-off rate, different boil duration, or leaving more trub in the kettle.

Before I got my 20G kettle I did this all the time. If you have a big enough second vessel, and can heat any amount of sparge water, then you'll get the best efficiency by splitting the water equally between mash and sparge.

What's the hardware there between the bung and the gas-in post for the quick disconnect?