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There should be a layer of CO2 on top since fermentation was vigorous before the temperature drop, right?

Oops. I guess I might have messed up. I did try to swirl the carboy, but had a hard time doing it.

Well, the Hefe seems to have started again by itself. The IPA seems to have no activity. So, I took my sanitized spoon and gave it a vigorous stir. If I still see no activity soon, I'm thinking of dropping in a pack of Nottingham yeast. I originally used Wyeast American Ale Yeast (1056).

So, I did an AG Hefe and IPA. Placed them in my fermentation chamber and set the temp to 64F. I had robust fermentation for 3+ days. After about 4 days the temperature probe must have drop onto the ground. Last night I noticed the wort was at 35F! I restored everything as best as I could. Now...

I have a simple stir plate now that I built a few years ago. It works okay, not great. It uses a simple voltage regulator to control a computer fan. The problem is it is very touchy. If I set the speed too low, the fan will eventually stop. Too fast and it throws the bar. So, I think it's time...

I made both starters: one with the stir plate and one without. Surprisingly, both looked active and vigorous. I kept swirling the one without the stir plate. Time will tell!

I've never decanted my yeast starters unless I did a yeast washing previously. I always just pitch the entire starter into the wort without cold crashing. It seems to work for me. Maybe, I'll take turns on the stir plate with the starters as best I can.

I'm doing a doubleheader tomorrow: an IPA and a Hefeweizen. I usually make starters when the yeast packs are more than 1 month old. The yeast packs are dated March and April. So, I'd like to make 2 yeast starters. Unfortunately, I have only 1 stir plate. Is it worthwhile to make a yeast...

Interesting. Why the extra fitting though? I guess they don't make it in 5/16" without it?

Thanks for the link. The disconnect shows 3/8" yet it fits 5/16" ID tubing?

I'm trying to replace a gas disconnect on my keg system. The hose is 5/16" ID. I have a gas disconnect, but it seems loose. I did a quick search, but it seems all disconnects are 1/4" barb. Is there something I'm missing?

So, my chest freezer died and wouldn't get below 45F. Time for a new one. I wound up getting the Frigidaire 8.7 cu ft model at Lowe's. Model: FFFC09M1RW. They had it for $269 and my friend got me a 5% discount which got it down to $255.55 plus tax. It easily fit my 3 Corny ball-lock kegs...

Victory Selene Saison. So musty, I couldn't drink it.

I was thinking that all the elbows, tees, etc. are original and must have lead, too. So, I guess worrying about the outside faucet is meaningless. I'll just run the water for a few minutes and brew on!

Yes, it's true I can't control the house plumbing which has lead. I have copper pipes which I'm sure has lead solder joining them. However, most of the drinking faucets are newer, so I think they're okay. I guess I'll just live with it by running it for a while before filling my HLT and mash tun.

Did you use lead-free faucets or just the regular ones?

I did a little research and I think outside faucets are not considered a potable water source. Therefore, I think they contain lead. So, the options are to not worry about it based on the thread that bkboiler provided. It seems the general consensus is it's safe in that thread. Or, replace it...

My house was built in 1982. I would assume it has lead.

I am getting tired of carrying gallons of water from my kitchen into my garage for brewing. I want to use my outside faucet with a RV/boat food-grade hose to fill my kettles. However, I remember reading that outside faucets may contain lead and other things that are not healthy, but I can't...

Well, the deal is done. I didn't see any differences with the second mash other than higher efficiency (as expected). I'll see if there are any taste differences in a few weeks when I keg these bad boys!