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Have you ever tried using this to transfer beer out of the brew kettle to the fermenter with this? Figuring out a good way to keep hop material out of the fermenter without sacrificing a lot of wort has been something I’ve struggled with every time I brew this style. Trying to avoid going the...

I can understand the need for the full water purge of the serving keg if you’re going for the full LoDO process, and you’re trying to preserve the so called delicate malt flavors that are hypersensitive to oxygen. However, I don’t see any reason that adapting the method of purging the serving...

Suppose it’s possible, but generally, 1318 is supposed to have higher flocculation than Conan. For whatever reason, 1318 seems to be the mostly likely yeast of the ones commonly used in this style to give the burn based on the anecdotal reports in this thread. Could just be it’s also the most...

It could certainly be from microscopic hop particles, but there is some mechanism that is keeping them in suspension long-term in some of these beers for whatever reason. The batch that had it for me was a split batch between 1318 vs. Conan - the 1318 batch had it and the Conan didn't. In the...

None yet, but I'm keeping pressure low (~2-3psi) during the first 3-4 days of fermentation. This pressure isn't any higher than what a commercial brewery would get just from the liquid pressure.

There is a lot more pressure on the yeast at the bottom of the fermenter at a commercial brewery just due to their size than from any reasonable pressure we'd apply to the head space during fermentation at the homebrew scale. So I don't think there's any need to worry about yeast health due to...

I've been following basically the same process, and i'ts been working quite well for my last 5 NEIPAs. The main difference is that I just use a shortened dip tube instead of the floating dip tube. I tried the floating dip tube once, and decided it was a little more effort to clean and didn't...

Using bubble wrap or something like plumbers putty? I’ve been skeptical of how good a job bubble wrap can do unless its taped up really well to seal in the probe from any outside air. With a big blob of putty on the side (facing away from the walls of the freezer), I’ve had to lower my...

Just to get a better reading of the liquid temp? I think a nice bonus of fermenting in a keg (or any stainless fermenter) vs. a plastic fermenter is that you can get an accurate reading of the liquid temp externally for free since steel is a much better conductor of heat than plastic. I just put...

I think this is something interesting to consider. For the batch I did which had it, I fermented in a keg and let it naturally carb using a spunding valve towards the tail end of fermentation. So my cold crash was done after the beer was 80-90% of the way carbonated. Would be curious to hear...

There's still the same issue with power in any of the available 5gal batch eBIAB systems - the Brau Supply V2 was the only one I'm aware of that offered a 2x1600W configuration. I haven't check aliexpress to see what they're offering for that price, but for the stainless steel custom mash...

Similar, but there are important differences (at least for my wants/needs): 1) Controller - The Brau Supply V2 had a simple, clean EZboil controller with a small footprint. IIRC, the High Gravity has a bulky PID and the brew boss is also bulky and software controlled. I'd like something that I...

Yep - there's good opportunity available for someone to step in now and offer something similar to the Brau Supply V2, since they're no longer available. I expect the margins are quite a bit higher on this new V3 system. For now, I'll most likely be looking into going through the effort of...

I hope you're right, but I'd had my eye on the V2 Brau Supply system for the past 6-9 months and when I saw the details on the V3 I wished I had bought the V2 system when it was still available - the main reasons being the option for the 2nd element and the EZboil controller. The mash basket...

I should also mention that all my hops were added in the primary (no keg hops).

My guess it’s related to the yeast and timing of the dry hop - I’ve gotten a pretty strong burn in a few commercial examples as well (Trillium and Pinthouse Pizza most often, but those are also the ones I’m able to get the most of), and I’d think they probably have reasonably consistent transfer...

Here's the link to a BYO article that has a really good analysis of the mineral profile of the brewing water and finished beer (including measurements for a Heady sample): https://byo.com/stories/issue/item/3590-minerals-profile-in-the-glass If you read through this, you'll see why...

Also, 20 grams seems extreme to me - I think people got carried away when there was a photo of a brew sheet that got out that showed 750ppm hardness. People started assuming this was their treated water target, but it’s more likely to be the targeted concentration for the finished beer...

IIRC, gypsum actually dissolves more easily in cool water. I’ve never attempted to add it directly to wort though. Pre-fermentation you could probably add it right in stir it up since you want to oxygenate it anyways.

I'm not sure that the flocculation properties of the yeast are a contributing factor - 1318 is one of the more flocculant yeasts people are using in this style. The timing of the dry hop could certainly be a factor - I'm thinking a split batch using 1318 and differently timed dry hop...