Search results

I haven't been able to find much feedback on these kettles/mash tuns online. Who uses these? Any reviews on quality and function? I ordered the mash tun below, and asked to have a 1.5" tri clamp port welded in the bottom for bottom-drain functionality...

I've found the mash too thick for higher gravity brews as well. I typically brew ~1.065 IPA's, and found my efficiency would take a hit on those beers due to the thicker mash. Efficiency on my lower gravity beers was fine. I recently sold my mash colander, and I'm going back to a traditional...

This is now sold!

Sort of.. I started a small Kombucha brewery, but still brewing beer at home! I'm planning to do a beer & kombucha blend at some point, though.

I'm still using the colander, but looking to switch to a 2nd vessel for mashing. I'd like to brew 15+ gallon batches, and the colander generally limits me to 10 gallons. And I don't think I'll be selling my BIAC any time soon - I actually purchased a Large 4-in-1 a few months back :ban:

Anyone looking to buy a BREWHA mash colander for their medium BIAC? I've got one that I'm looking to sell.

I have the original analog controller and use it during fermentation all the time when brewing my Berliner Weisse. Turn the dial back to about 1/3 power, plug the element control into the Ranco, and use the Ranco to control the on/off of the element.

Glad to hear it turned out for you :mug:

Yes, but it was slower to sour (3 days vs 1 day), and the final product wasn't as good as using unmilled grain Yes. I seal the lid, attach the blowoff tube and run it into a jar of starsan. Hook C02 to the bottom port and purge, using the starsan bubbles as a flow gauge. No, the acid...

Thanks! Here's my recipe and process:

I've brewed multiple kettle sours on this - there's no concern with souring in the BIAC. The lacto is present in the BIAC, regardless of kettle souring..it's all over the malt that you're putting in there during the mash - the boil will kill any trace of lacto. Most recently I did a kettle...

I recirculated some PBW and 200° water for about 30 minutes and it removed all buildup...this was after approximately 1.5 years of use, and brewing every 3 weeks on average.

The volumes are doable. My IPA is about 30lbs of malt and 60 liters of water in the mash. I'm not sure you'll hit the 1.074 you're aiming for with those volumes though. I haven't really looked at the beersmith profiles included, but I'm guessing they only take the mash colander volume into...

My IPA uses 1lb at flameout, and it's possible to do a whirlpool with that (though it's more of a PITA than it's worth). You need to start the whirlpool before adding the hops, and keep the flow fairly slow. If you go to fast it just sucks all of the hops into the hose and clogs everything...

Good stuff. Here is how I typically have it set up.

Why install a valve on the lid at all? I never use a valve on the lid. On one port I use a hose barb triclover fitting connected directly to the lid, with a hose running into a jug of starsan. The second port either has a PRV or ball lock fitting installed. Eliminating the valve will...

My lid doesn't come of the BIAC during chilling. The lid goes on about 1 minute before the boil ends (to sanitize it), and is only opened to add yeast, and later to add dry hops. Chilling 46 liters of wort from boil to ~80*F takes about 15 minutes with the whirlpool..without is about 30...

I can't verify or debunk it, but many, many breweries whirlpool after the boil and before chilling, with no notable negative effects.

I whirlpool for quicker chilling after the boil. Speeds up chilling time significantly.

I do, and it really helps.