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I'm looking at buying this cool 10 gal stainless fermenter: http://www.dwbrewproducts.com/shop/product_info.php/gal-stainless-steel-carboy-p-78 I'd like to try using it as a single vessel (brew-in-bag, then fermenting in it), so I would need it to hold about 10 gal to start, but then it...

I kind of pictured I'd run into problems like that.

No thoughts, anyone?

I have considered an outdoor burner, but my high BTU burner on my gas kitchen range gets 7 gallons to boil in about 30-45 minutes. I'm sure I can do it faster with a propane setup, but I'm willing to put up with a slower boil time and be in a clean kitchen.

So I've done about 20 brews, the biggest being about 13lbs of grain. So if I get the 9 gallon pot, I can either dunk sparge as you suggest, or just make a 4 gallon batch, or come up with another work around. Again, thanks for the great info!

I hear ya! That's great information - 15lb of grain for an 11g pot and a 5.5 g batch. How would I calculate my limits if I used a 9g pot (I'm using it on my stove, and I don't think the 11g will fit under the microwave/hood)?

How much grain do you get in your basket? I was thinking about the 36qt/9 gal basket...

So I've made several 5g batches with a 10 gal cooler with false bottom. Once the temp settles, the cooler maintains temp easily for an hour, and I usually hit about 65-70% efficiency. I'm happy with the setup, but for various reasons (the biggest being that I just can't leave "well enough"...

Looks like a great system for 2.5 g batches. How do you think it will work for 5 g? Obviously, the weight of the grain in the basket might be a concern. Additionally, how much strike water do you think would be needed to end up with 6.5-7g at the start of the boil?

Exactly! Do you have a gasket under the lid, or does it not require that tight of a seal?

My concern with that is reaching inside to clean. And do they come in 6 g size?

This is the kind of confirmation I'm looking for - thanks. I plan on brewing in my 8g kettle, then transferring (via plate chiller) to a separate 6g kettle to ferment. I'll see if I can get some gasket material to line the edge of the kettle, then run a small bungee strap from one handle to...

I hear ya - my BK fermenter isn't going to be comparable to a conical. Re: your last question - yes, i won't be brewing more often than monthly. Thanks for all the input so far...

I currently use a plastic bucket for fermenting, but I have this idea and wanted your thoughts (I'm hoping this isn't an original idea and several people tell me they do it already successfully). What if I used a SS brew kettle as a fermentation vessel instead of buying a dedicated SS conical...

Look what I got today... After seeing it, I'm glad I went with 400 - I think it will be a good cross between filtering and hop utilization. And the 6x10 size looks like it will provide plenty of room in my BP for the hops to swim. Also, I'm very happy with Chad as the vendor - I wouldn't...

I've heard that you also lose some volume (~5%) to the cooling effect. For a 5 gallon batch, that equates to about 1/4 gallon loss, if my calculations are correct. Another 1/2 gallon loss to trub would account for your total 3/4 gallon loss. I aim for 5 3/4 gallons at the end of boil to wind...

Thanks for the info, beergolf. I guess I need to consider a fermentation fridge...

So, how hot is too hot? Would fermenting an ale yeast at around 70-72 cause fusel alcohols (it was supposed to ferment at 65)? Or does it need to be significantly higher

How much can you ferment in a sanke? I shoot for 5 gallons of brew for bottling - are sankes about 6 gallons?

The 6x10-400 cost $45. Like they say, "it didn't happen if there's no pics", so I'll definitely post them. I use mainly pellets, but would like to also start using whole hops. I had the same thoughts as you - I don't need to filter every granule out, so 400 is what I went with.