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When you make wort, you add fermentable sugar into it. The yeast eat these sugars and make alcohol and CO2 more or less. After fermentation, the yeast have nothing to eat because they used all the fermentable sugars to make the beer. When bottling, you add a small amount of fermentable sugars...

Do you have a hydrometer? Fermenting is done when the reading is the same for 3 days in a row. 8 days is too early to bottle no matter what. I am not familiar with your kit, but I would wait at least two weeks if you have no way to check the gravity. If you bottle to early, they are going to...

Are you sure the smell in the fermenter is not CO2? If you are sticking your head down in it, you would be smelling the CO2 gas cloud above your beer. I think you might mistake CO2 as having a chemical odor. If the chemical smell burns your nose, its CO2 and not someting to worry about. From...

You should bottle condition as close to 70 degrees as possible. Don't worry about the yeast temp range.

I can make my airlock bubble on command this batch. I must have set my bucket at the perfect spot on the floor that when I walk past it, I can make it bubble by stepping in the right spot. GilSwillBasementBrews is 100% correct. There are videos on youtube on using a hydrometer that are very...

It varies, but my last batch was around the same in airlock performance. Is your temp around the lower end of the range for the yeast? I have noticed that lower end temps will have slower airlock activity. I wouldn't worry, airlocks are a poor indicator of fermentation.

My collection of bottles is pretty much all New Glarus Brewing.

I wouldn't worry, I pitched my last packet of US-05 dry and it took around 48 hours to start showing airlock activity. That being said, airlock activity (or lack of) is not a good indicator of fermentation. Your yeast are most likely getting going and I bet in a day, your airlock will be...

I think 10 days at 62F is quick to worry about it. Give it a few more weeks at least before you panic. I keep my house colder to save on natural gas, I keep my bottles in my master bedroom closet and they take at least 3 weeks to have anything going on. After 4 or 5 weeks, they are fine...

My first ever batch of Mr. Beer I dumped the HME out of the can into the pot of water. I failed to notice the label was wet and tore thus the whole unsanitized can fell into the wort, even some bits of label. It turned out fine. That is when I found this forum. I didn't have a home brew to...

I dropped a can of Mr Beer extract in my first wort. The can was in no way clean. The beer turned out as good as I could expect Mr. Beer to.

You are fine.

Is that the pot you intend to use? I would guess the base is warped on it. It looks like an electric stove, check to ensure the burner is stable and installed correctly. My boil pot wobbles until it gets hot then it is stable. How much water is in it? Did you fill it up with the amount of...

I believe your temp was too low, the northern brewer site list the range for the yeast at 50-59. Did you move it today? I imagine you were a bit cold before.

There is a part of my post where I talked about my plans for the house beer, I plan my cost per 12oz to be 40cents, not including standard brewing supplies. I agree you can save money, but if you do catch the bug, you will spend quite a bit in brewing hardware to make your beer at 40cents a...

I have just started brewing, as in I made a Mr. Beer batch. It isn't even bottle conditioned yet. However, I have been reading and reading and reading about home brewing. Here is what I figured. My Mr. Beer Classic American Light ended up giving me 20 12oz bottles. I think I could have...