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I'm converting a boiler into a mash tun and wanted to know whether it is important that my false bottom have a stand or whether a regular domed false bottom will work just as well? You can't buy them with stands in the UK which means having to make one. Thank you.

Wow that's a lot of volume, how big do you recon your 5kg grainbed would become once it soaked up some water during the mash?

How much grain would I need to mash for a 4 inch+ grainbed? Thanks.

Is there a downside to this such as tannin extraction? What kind of mash tun do you use?

I'm planning on getting the 40ltr Buffalo boiler and turning it into a mash tun although I've only heard of people using it for BIAB, would the mash effect the heating element and cause it to cut out?

Hey have you mashed in it since? I was thinking of getting a 40ltr Buffalo and turning it into a mash tun but I've only heard of people using for BIAB so I'm not too sure whether it will work or not.

Eat my shorts.

Would it be a bad idea to mash at 40c, drain all the wort into the boiler, heat to 65-75c and then place it back in the mash tun? Would this have some repercussions like DMS?

Wow, that sounds nice and easy, I believe I was referring to the drain valve. Is there anything else I need to know as my plan was simply to switch the drain valve for a 'weldless 3-piece ball valve kit' and install a filter.

My plan is to purchase a 30l water boiler and change it into a mash tun, but is the tap difficult to remove? Would I even need to?

Sweet! I'll do the same then, but how much did you use to increase the gravity? I'm looking to increase mine by about 4 points.

I had a similar problem which for me was due to prolonged mashing, doing 1 hour at 60c and then 1 hour at 70c, now I'm just going for 1 hour at 70c.

This is the best value for money but is 1 litre too much? How much would I roughly need for each calibration? I intend to do it once a month for each brew. I've been told that their accuracy extends as far as 4.0 and 7.0 which should be ok for my 2-decimal-place meter...

Hahaha that's what I want, like a session imperial stout, lots of body but with 5% alcohol. I'm aiming for a 20 FG but was thinking that might be too syrupy, how many IBUs do you think I should use?

As in the minimal amount I could get away with before it becomes too sweet?

You are right but tomato potato, as long it tastes as planned I'm not too worried about colour or style, I'm adding some lactose so that should give it a big creamy head.

I've was considering that, when the yeast themselves breakdown the complex sugars into simple ones is it not feasible to brew with 100% speciality? Would the yeast be 'overwhelmed' by such high levels of sugars? Also, rye chocolate!? Is it like a spicy chocolate?

My thoughts exactly! I want it to be a chocolate stout, lend me your opinion: Maris Otter......61.5% Chocolate........15% Munich............7.5% Crystal 60........6% Flaked barley...10% Does this seem nicely balanced? What would you do? Also, would it seem absurd or unnecessary to substitute...

Whose nutrients do you use? The last one I bought, Young's, advocates a teaspoon for every 5 litres! I presume you intend to put it in during the last 15 minutes of the boil...?

Yikes! That sounds more like a white russian! Imperial milk stouts should definitely be called white russians, I'm taking dibs of that name. So is it an imperial stout at all...?