Search results

I agree. IPA's are best fresh. So the 2 extra weeks of bottle priming could decrease the perceived fresh hop flavor. Also, you are letting the hop aromas escape since bottling takes longer than transferring to a keg. Good luck.

Made an "imperial wit". OG came in at 1.091. I pitched a 2L starter of WLP400 at 67f and burst with O2. I let temp free rise up to 74f per the article below. It only took 60hrs to get there. Anyone else test the limits of WLP400? I'm wondering how much alcohol this thing can take...

Yeah. My plan was to start with the full batch of 7.5Gallons. Get it to ~180f, and start slowly mixing in. Stirring excessively and then turning the heat back on.

A buddy, that got out of brewing, gave me some ingredients for an extract batch. I want to use it up because I'm sure it's already old, but don't want to brew outside in 35f weather. Any issues with using DME/LME on the Boilcoil that I should be aware of? Or is it just smarter to wait until...

You got a recipe on your sour mead? I got some 1g glass carboys laying around and some honey to use. Thanks

I have done lagers "grain to glass" in under 4 weeks. The brulosophy guys have done them in 20 days. Typical lagers are in primary for 2 weeks then 6-8 weeks lagering. That's 3 weeks vs 8 weeks at a min. By my calc, slightly more than 1 week difference. But if you can occupy your ferm...

You should really try the quick lager method. Saves a ton of time. And if you do a d-rest you won't get off flavors.

Chlorine.

I'm in. Thanks.

This. My wife wanted me to go electric too because I was bitching all the time about my brew days being weather dependent. So I made the jump. It's not cheap at all, though I needed all new kettles. I now have a really nice basement brewery/bar, but check out prices before you make the move.

I brew every 3-4 weeks. So I need to clear a keg in that time frame. During the winter though I brew more and drink more.

Haze is usually from yeast in suspension. However you can add a little wheat or a good amount of rye. They have higher protein levels, which would lead to a haze.

I would agree here. Snow has nothing to do with outside temperature. Snow is a good insulator because it breaks up wind, but it won't actively change the temperature of anything without touching it. Put it in your garage that is insulated. It will likely stay above freezing in there unless...

I would go this route. You won't really need to worry about bugs and wild yeast if you keep it closed this time of year.

What results are you looking for by cold crashing? The only reason to cold crash is for clarity. It seems you want haze but want to cold crash.

One trick I've read is brewing at 152/153 and then adding some simple syrup to the end of the boil. This will help leave some unfermentables (aka sweetness) and add the dryness some people like.

Don't do anything in this hobby for cost savings. It's an expensive hobby. If you want the challenge of AG, go for it. You can always go back. If you are content with the extract batches, then don't make the jump. I used to keep track of my "breakeven" on my investment and that stopped...

Have the same experience. Got 87%. 1.055 down to 1.007 in 9 days. Kegged it right away so it wouldn't keep going. I think O2 and low mash temps are the cause.

Per my LHBS, 833 is pretty lazy. But 1.030 is high. Perhaps create another starter and add some of the beer to the starter before pitching. I make a 2L starter and dose with pure O2 when I do lagers.

Thanks for the quick responses.