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Would have to see your writing diagram, but chances are you have a partially completed circuit from hot to neutral through the light. This is a fairly common mistake. There is a thread on here that is pretty good at illustrating what is going on but I can't find it from my phone.

Since it is so spread out it's hard to put a number on, but I'd venture I've only put in about $5K or so.

a tad more time... Don't actually have the tablet mounted yet, but gives an idea of the final product.

located some spare time still have lots of work to do formulating how best to lay out my wiring...

Yeah, a beaglebone or RasbPi are in the plan for things I want to play with. At this point though I just want to be able to heat water. Then my initial homebrews can fuel further endeavours.

yup, many people on here do this including the build I'm starting. Check out the Automated brewing subforum.

As long as the box is well insulated and the condenser of the fridge is vented externally, most mini fridges can cope just fine with the heat spit out by beer. I think calculations I've seen put it at around 20-40W for a 5 gallon batch, which works out to ~70-140BTU/hr. From some quick...

Heat tape is basically a flexible resistive heating element that you can tape to an object to heat it... I'd assume he's got it wrapped around his RIMS tube rather than having a heating element inclosed. This probably works well if the MT is well insulated. As for your library, I like it...

This will work nicely, just keep in mind the efficiency of Peltier modules is ~10-20%. The benefit of course is that Peltier modules can achieve much finer control over both cooling and heating from the same unit as compared to refrigeration. Problem is finding a good way to conduct heat...

I have been actually making progress on my home brewery and wanted to setup a post here so people can add pointers on things to change due to experience.... I went to school for chemical engineering and now i use very little of the skills that I learned at work so I needed a big project at...

in general, either will work just have to mount your contacts properly on the switch.

I'm a bit confused how you are wiring the switches. In general i would think your goal is use one to control power to the system as kinda a safety switch, and the second perhaps to select between PID control or element on 100%. These types of switches are nice as the contact blocks are modular...

Be careful with those sensors as the operational temp range appears to top out at 80C or 176F, this is only slightly over mashout temp. They probably won't melt, but depending on the plastic used it might start to leach out chemicals into your beer. These would work nicely for fly sparging...

Very nice!

I have been slowly assembling an Arduino controlled electric brewing setup and TronixStuff was my go to site for getting into arduino. I had a small background in programing but not anything that I use regularly so it was an amazing refresh course.

Yup, just got my Chugger and now and doing the same thing. I had some 12/3 so I'll use that, but as TimL said 14/3 is sufficient as well. Silly 4' cord...

So a few things I am curious about. What pumps are you using? I hadn't thought about finding a DC pump, but now that i do, that would be pretty sweet being able to control the pump speed. If that is what you are doing, you may want to have some low pass filtering to smooth out the ripple...

I've been using http://fritzing.org/ to do my layouts. Haven't messed around with the PCB creator yet, but it seems to have some decent functionality at taking your breadboard wires and turning them into traces on a PCB

haha, It's wonderful when the significant other gives you carte blanche.

I believe it boils down to "over-engineering is fun!"