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How has the fan worked out for you with the lower CFM? The fan I'm looking at buying is 47CFM. I believe I read the fan you are using is 60CFM but if you are lowering the speed, it is probably around the same CFM as the one I want.

Yeah I was planning on using 1/2" plywood as the top. I think that should be strong enough. I'm just not sure if I should be a few cross sections for strength. Or maybe another plywood layer inside. Jesus, that's a pretty cool keezer lol No I don't think I'm going to go crazy and use fiberglass.

I'm using a Fire Stick. I didn't want to get into doing the work with raspberry pi.

Right, that is what I currently have. Collar sits on the freezer and the freezer lid opens normally. I want the collar and lid to be one piece on my new one. I feel this would be a much better set up. I can get the taps and coiled up lines out of the way when the freezer is open.

My current keezer is like that (the only difference is mine is flush with the outside freezer wall). I want my new one to be attached to the lid which is why I feel it would be easier to make a new lid using some type of plywood attached to the collar.

Are you using a Fire Stick or Raspberry Pi?

I was actually thinking that as I typed my original question. Do they make motion sensor plugs?

Going to bring this thread back since it is such a great thread. What CFM are those bilge blowers producing? I found this fan which seems like it would work really well. Seems like it would be plug and play especially at 47CFM. I'm not sure I'd need a fan speed adjuster. I assume 47CFM...

Do you keep your tap list on all the time? I'd find it annoying to turn the TV on and off when I want to see what is on tap. I'd like to keep it on all the time but would think that would damage the screen some how (maybe burn in isn't a thing anymore).

I just bought a bigger chest freezer to replace my 7 cu ft one. Right now the collar is attached to the freezer and the original lid lifts up. I'm thinking for my new one, I want to build a collar and lid that is all one piece. This way I don't have to figure out how to get the collar to...

I use 35% power with a lid on about 95% of the way and get .75gph. This gives me good movement within the wort without having popping bubbles coming out everywhere.

USA ITH-20R with 3 Transmitter

It is still all related to the conversation though. OP asked about spunding. It then went to trub being transferred to the keg and yeast coming over for spunding which turned into floating dip tube. IMO, all of it is still good info for spunding and for OP to use.

I think what you are thinking about is how some say distilled water can pull minerals from your body if you drink it. Not sure how true that is but I've heard it a bunch of times. RO (or distilled) isn't "aggressive". It won't do anything to SS.

I like this idea. Where did you get the wire?

Yup. I replaced all orings with good quality ones. The keg held pressure for 5 days while it was finishing fermenting and carbing.

Did you try to pull a beer with the 7/16 nut? I'm having the same problem. I get nothing but gas.

Those are most likely just co2 bubbles coming out of suspension from fermentation. I was thinking that could be my issue but it also happened when I pulled a sample today. I've been doing transfers this way for a while and this is the first time I'm hearing this sound.

I was filling my keg using a closed system transfer, filling in the keg through the beer out dip tube. The entire time I heard a gurgling noise. When I just took a gravity sample from the beer out dip tube, I heard the same noise. Anyone experience this before? I've used this keg before with...

I have one but yet to use it. I bought it to get samples from my pressurized keg during fermentation. Is down closed and up all the way open? My guess is that foam is coming from the beer that was in sitting in the line. If you had a cold empty line, you might not get any foam.