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White Labs WLP005, British Ale Yeast.

I have a beer that has quit at about 1.020. It fermented quite actively for about a day and a half and then the bubbling stopped. As it happened, this was when I had to move the carboy a couple of times between rooms (we had a party and needed it out of the way). I was using a highly flocculent...

I did check the hydrometer and did correct for temperature. The OG issue could have something to do with it. On two of the brews, my OG was 2 points higher than I expected - 1.061 instead of 1.059 and 1.071 vs. 1.069. Hard to say on the AG since, being my first, I had no idea what efficiency to...

Thanks for thinking about it. All the yeasts were White Labs -- WLP001 California Ale Yeast, WLP005 British Ale, and WLP023 Burton Ale Yeast.

For the third brew in a row, fermentation has seemed to stop at 1.018-1.020. All three had predicted FG's of 1.014-1.016. Two were extract brews using different brands of extract. One was an ESB and was relatively pale, and one was an American brown. Now, I've brewed my first AG batch, a...

Well, the brew is finished. I got 67% efficiency -- 6.5 gallons in the kettle and 5.1 in the fermenter. The OG was 1.052. The boil off was just as predicted, but I was about 1/2 gallon short in the kettle. I think my efficiency was somewhat low because I opened the mash tun every 20 minutes...

Thanks for all the advice. I ended up adding the strike water first at 168 per Beersmith. I covered the cooler and let it sit for 10 minutes. The temp was down to 164 which was the strike temp that Beersmith gave without accounting for equipment. I then stirred in the grain, covered and let...

Tomorrow I plan to do my first AG. I'm using John Palmer's suggested recipe (Oak Butt Ale). According to his procedure, you would put the grain in the mash tun and then add the strike water a gallon at a time. On the other hand, at our club brew's AG class last week, we were told to add the...

I also have the Bayou Classic turkey fryer. However, I want to replace the pot with a 40 qt. aluminum pot that my local restaurant supply store sells for $40. The 40 qt. pot in addition to being bigger is much more sturdy than the one that comes with the fryer. My question is this. The turkey...

I doubt it's a knockoff. I bought it from Midwest Homebrewing supplies who is one of your listed retailers. I'd really appreciate the instructions. I've sent you a private message with my e-mail address. Thanks.

So, starting from the inside, you have two washers and the small o-ring, then the cooler, and on the outside the large o-ring and the nut. Is that right? The picture on the Kewler Kitz page is too small to see clearly, but it looks like that is the case.

Well, my Kewler Kitz came, and I'm ready to install it. Unfortunately, no instructions came with it. I'm not sure where the washers and o-rings are meant to go. I'm guessing that the large o-ring goes on the outside of the cooler and the small one on the inside. Is that right? Do both washers...

Is there a situation where you'd want to use both the 5.2pH buffer and some minerals or is it just pH that matters? Could you, for example, add calcium but use the pH buffer to assure your pH stays in the right range?

That's pretty good actually. So, if I need 3.5 gal runoff, that implies I need 5 gallons total, counting grain absorption. If I mash at 1.3 qts./lb, that's 3.25 gallons. So I need to add 1.75 gallons at mashout to get my 3.5 gallons runoff. This water would have to be 202 degrees to raise a 152...

I've been planning my first AG batch and have been reading John Palmer's book fairly religiously. I decided the safest thing to do for my first batch was to follow the recipe and procedure for Oak Butt Brown Ale that he describes in great detail in the chapter "Your First All-Grain Batch."...

On careful reading, the nomograph shows the pH of a base malt only. So, if you get a 5.8 on the chart, that is the pH without the specialty grains. Choosing a style that brings the color to the right point on the color scale at the top of the chart will bring the mash pH with all grains at mash...

I'm pretty sure I'm reading it correctly. In the text, he works out a couple of examples and comes up with a PH of 5.8 in one example which he says is good for amber, red, and brown beers. He then adds calcium to bring the PH down to 5.6 which he says is good for a Pilsener or Helles. So, the...

Thanks for the reference on the minerals. It looks like this water is ok for brown ale - perhaps a touch of sodium. Unfortunately, the analysis sheet I got from the company doesn't include sulfates. I am still confused about PH issues. Palmer's nomograph shows a range of desirable PH's from 5.6...

This is probably a NOOB worrying way too much, but anyway.... The other day, I got a water analysis report for Crystal Geyser Olancha spring water. I'm not sure how to use it in a brewing context. Compared to most water in the water table in Beersmith, it appears to have remarkably little in...

I'm planning my first all-grain in a couple of weeks. I was thinking of using the recipe for Oak Butt Brown Ale in the "Your First All-Grain Batch" chapter in John Palmer's book. I figure that by following his directions step by step and keeping the recipe variables constant, I'll be better able...