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Technically then by your assessment, 6 row would be the best way to go, as it has more diastatic power than 2 row I believe. I did end up going with Golden Promise as I hit the store before I saw this response, but I have no problem stocking up on malts. :)

Looking at really trying to nail the NE IPA style as well as do some good high gravity dessert stouts. Grain is much cheaper by the bag obviously, so what would work better in that situation? There's about $10 difference between both bags, Pearl being cheaper.

Thanks to the people that actually gave me "helpful" responses in this thread.

No, I think I do understand. I simply wanted to see if this beer would start fermenting again even if I'm going to get some cardboard flavors from it. It's a learning process dude and I don't think you understand that.

I'm learning a lot in this thread. Yes it's possible I oxidized the beer, but if I was going to end up dumping it anyways had it not taken off, what does it matter?

Update : we have krausen! A big fluffy layer!

Those Noble hops are gonna be a footnote when the Simcoe, Citra, and Chinook steamroll them. Unless you're really set on getting rid of old hops I'd keep the Noble hops for a different recipe. Or how about you split the batch and do one half Noble, one half modern.

would you maybe suggest splitting the batch into two fermenters and pitching yeast in each one? Then at bottling time just rack both of them into the bottling bucket? That way there's more even yeast distribution and they might not tire out as easily?

Nah, I tried it. it wasn't beer. It was basically malt soda (minus the carbonation). :(

Well I whisked it till there was a thin layer of froth on top and added some sugar water with a half packet of yeast. I also placed the bucket in some warm 70 degree water. We will see what happens. I had a peanut butter and jelly beer that stalled out at 1.032 likewise and I ended up having to...

No, a hydrometer reading. I'm going to try to sanitize an egg beater and whisk it up really good to see if it does anything.

Perhaps this has been discussed before, but a search brought up nothing. Speaking of dry hopping, what would be the difference in using the same hops with the same batch, but split in two, 1 using, say, 2 oz of hops for 4 days vs 1 oz of hops for 8 days? I'm sure the experiment has been done...

By saying it won't matter does that mean this batch is toast?

Should I swirl the bucket around some?

Imperial Pumpkin Stout here. O.G. of 1.138, pitched two US-05 packets for a 2 gallon batch, and 2 weeks later it's stuck. Been fermenting at house temp which has varied between 65 and 72 degrees. What's a guy to do here? Pitch some yeast nutrient? Make a starter? I can't imagine two full packs...

I was under the impression that calcium chloride softened mouth feel.

And see, water might be the key. We have rock hard water. Been using calcium chloride in all of these beers. I get the look and feel down, and the aroma is explosive. But the flavor falls apart. Is that indicative of water quality? One of my recent batches :

I'll send you one, lol. Again, I've had people say this is better than the local beer - but it's not satisfactory to me. I have to keep trying.

See now is that recipe saying I need to put citra, El Dorado, and mosaic in for 40 min? That's a bit long imo. I did a Congress Street clone to the T, and it came out both too sweet and too bitter - and Congress is one of my favorite beers.

I sat down one night in a drunken stupor (turns out it wasn't the worst thing I could have done), sat down in front of my binder, and wrote down every variable that might need to change in this brewing adventure. I too use table sugar up until the most recent batch which I used corn sugar...