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Can your contractor friend make the "face on" view in the OP a slide out or maybe a tip out where the bar front is part of the keezer, but-semi movable and you could load the kegs that way? If not, the best option is to probably frame in the box area with greenboard (for moisture), insulate...

No worries, we're all just trying to help. Also, what is the minimum opening you have. I.E. it's 40x26 from that face on view - is that the side you'll be sliding the kegerator in? If not, is the other side's opening the same dimensions or is it narrower due to the angles? The mini fridge...

Like a previous poster said, it's kind of hard to tell the exact area you're dealing with from that PDF. The 7.1 cf freezer that I'm currently converting is about 36.5W x 33H x 22D (counting the hinges). Going by that it's most likely possible to wedge something into your space, but without...

No s***! I'm in the middle of my build right now and every time something this nice gets posted - it makes me go "why didn't I think of that?!?".

Received - Thanks!

These came in a kit that I ordered and I have no use for them. 5/16 and 1/4 barb. First $15 paypal'd to azimmer4.at.hotmail.com will have them shipped out Monday. :mug:

You can put it anywhere (that's what she said)... even in the collar. All I did was cut an old laptop cord up for mine. I didn't wire the heat side, but it would be plenty easy to do. Put the controller in the front face or one of the side corners of the collar near the front, run the...

Not ragging on you in the least or anything... every time I get something done on my build, I go "****, i should/could have done x instead of y". But you could have used a molex connector or something for about $.60 and have an easier disconnect than the splice. Just an idea for anyone else...

If you don't want it in the collar, you could put it right above the thermostat and probably run the temp sensor out and up the back. I'm boxing my freezer in, so I put mine in the back. I just took my time with a dremel to make the cutout.

I recently bought two 36" bar clamps (quick grip style) for $5.99 each and a single 48" square aluminum bar clamp for $13.99. On quality/functionality alone, the 36" would probably get about a 7/10 and the 48" a 9/10. Considering how cheap the 36's were, I'll give them both a 9/10. The...

Kinda funny how easy it goes when you do it right. Picked up a 3" blade tonight for $20 at Lowes. The first one cost me $9 from Amazon. I shoulda learned a long time ago that it doesn't pay to skimp on tools, but what you gonna do? Cleaned up the wiring with zip ties, locked the temp...

First setback - I'm honestly surprised it's taken this long. Generic 3" hole saw just isn't cutting it... literally. Made it through the plywood sorta ok but once it hit the freezer lid, it just gave up. I'll grab a carbide bit this weekend and get back on it.

It's really not complex at all... if you have ever done anything with hand tools, you should be fine if you take it slow, think it through and plan ahead. Also, there's almost no insulating to do - especially if you don't use a collar. If you do build a collar, foam insulation board is cheap...

I'll defer to the more experienced members here, but I'm almost positive any 2-tap kegerator will only fit two 1/6 barrels OR one 1/4 - 1/2 barrel. You won't be able to fit a half/quarter and anything else. That's one of the main reasons I didn't go with a two tap kegerator. If you're ok...

Temp controller is in and working. This is in the back also. I thought about putting it somewhere on the front, but figured I'd mostly set it and forget it. This one displays F*, I just haven't messed with the settings or clipped it in since I was just checking it.

On another note, I had originally planned to hook a little CPU fan to a USB coupler on the inside of the tower. Then, I could just run a regular USB cable from the coupler on the outside of the tower either to an A/C adapter or to a surge protector with USB inputs. The fan I ended up with...

Got the tower dimensions planned and all drawn out. I'm sure everyone knows, but just a reminder - measure 17 times, check it, check it again and then cut. If I had used the original fan and tap line centers on this pic, the 3" holes would have been half obstructed by the freezer wall.

Main part of the lid is done and put back on. The bolts could be a half inch shoter, but I don't think they'll get in the way of anything. Now on to the tower.

Frame - done. Freezer - in.

They are parking brake style locks. The casters will be just about hidden on the front and sides. There will only be about 1/2 inch clearance between paneling and trim and the floor. I like the no-wheel look, but wanted it easy to move the couple times a year I'll need to do that. They might...