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around here those things arent cheap (10-15 per set).. camlocks can be had for quite a bit less

Unfortunately, im in the midst of an major brewery upgrade which most likely wont be completed until my return from Oktoberfest (yes.. Germany :) :) :)..) Sorry, if you still need the assistance when I have things setup, I would be more than happy make that change.

Was the red output light on the PID lit after the actual temperature passed 50deg? If it wasnt, I would check your SSR to see if it is operating normally. I actually went thru a couple SSR's (cheap china ebay specials), until i got one that works fine. I was having the same problem as what...

Hey, Yes I have had a Sesto's working for around 8 months now. It worked right from the get go, I followed the Auber manual, a few of the settings are named slightly different but they are in the same order as the Auber as you cycle thru them. Yes I have run the auto tune a few times. The...

Ive had a few, so take this advice with a grain of salt. In auto mode you the controller should be handling its on off cycles internally. In manual mode you simply dial in a percentage, say 50%, and during your control cycle, the element will be on 50% of the time. If that cycle was 10s, then...

the flammable materials raises a few eyebrows. it may of contained something you might not want to deal with.

Awesome love the repurpose mac case!!

The other thing to consider is that moving from solid state relays to mechanical relays you dont have the heat generation problem due to the losses within the SSR. I think its a good idea, and dont think you will lose much accuracy at all.

One concern may be the weight of the liquid. How large of a batch are you looking to do?

I brew 10gallons using a 50L (13ish gallon) brew kettle from a converted keg.

May not be the right place in the forum, but his head is in the right place. You may want to look into a no chill method.. no water usage, pitch yeast a few days after your wort naturally cools.

You may have consistency issues, but no doubt you will end up with beer :) A friend of mine who has been homebrewing for decades mentions his early methods were basically to mash in at 140, and then just take it up to 180 over the course of an hour on a burner.. that was the norm back then.

Oh? I said that because you mentioned it was PVC in your earlier post..

Some may disagree, but I would of gone with silicone over the PVC for the hot side of the brewery. For such small runs the extra cost for something that is designed to take that temp would of been minimal (silicone/thermoplastics) everything else looks great! i was too nervous to hard plump by...

What you want to do is slow the flow rate of the wort such that the output is at your desired temperature.

didnt say how far it is? what about hard copper, or pex?

measuring mass would be the most feasible solution. But honestly, how far off is your sight glass? are you trying to measure down the the mL? As long as your within a few hundred mL you should be fine, i mean, when you extract from the fermenter, what kind of measurement device would you use...

This is somewhat off topic to your question, but depending on the age and type of water heater you have, you may not want to use it in your brewing process due to sediment or other particulate which are not desirable. This comes from a cooks point of view, normally they would start with cold...

That will be cutting it too close. If your running a new feed, go with 30A 10Ga.

Also ventilation, especially in the summer when the extra humitidy and heat are undesirable. but ill never go back. Its nice not having to haul things around, my brewery is 10 ft away from my fermenters which are next to the kegerator..