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A PID controller will perform best when controlling 1 enviroment. When you run the auto tune to set the P, I and D gains, the controller is measuring the way the system reacts to changes (the "inertia"). The various places were you want to have different sensors would change those auto tune...

I would confirm this first.. I dont have one in hand, but im almost positive it is not a pipe thread (much finer, higher pitch)

I would recommend changing out that galv plug for a bushing with a 3/4" FPT port. That way you can use a proper strain relief fitting. Something like this: http://www.markertek.com/Cable-Management-Protection/Cable-Strain-Reliefs/Arlington-Industries-Inc/LPCG757.xhtml that can be had for...

Just a comment, you might want to put in a strain relief fitting. You dont want the cable to only be fixed to the terminals. on a side note, that keggle looks all purty and polished

looks great.. you'll surely have no rusting problems!

another vote for silver soldering.. the material cost is minimal.. it really isnt difficult, and with a swaged coupler, its definitely strong.. easily good enough for our purposes

looks like PID controller capabable of a dc ssr output. score.. just need a 12V DC power source.

might be missing something, but why the big heatsink if its a mechanical contactor?

Hmm.. you did ground each of your e kettles with dedicated grounding wire correct? I would not rely on the the fact that the kettle is just resting on a steel plate as a solid ground. you could do some tests via an ohm meter to check your resistance to ground thru the water, or pot, and then...

im using a sestos.. you can follow the auber manual.. its basically identical, except Celsius only.. which is good as your from sweden :)

you may want to brace the upper valve using the handle somehow.. a long threaded rod and some ingenuity should get you there :)

looks great man.. one comment. on your herms out (i beleive thats what it is), youve got 2 valves (one for recirc I assume.. I would be slightly concerned with the distance you will be from the pot in terms of the 2nd valve handle.. the further you get away, the more torque you will be applying...

Make sure to include GFCI

i use 50' cu tubing, but that is because I also chill in the HLT..

if your recirculation is slow enough (allowing that element to transfer the heat into the wort) then sure.. there would be no difference between that an a RIMS tube, just that instead of it being sealed, its open to atmospheric pressure

love the arm rest peice! should be a real nice sized bar when your thru! dont forget the tv and you'll never have to leave.

That is correct. The SS under the plastic does not have handles. I did cut out the hole in the top (which removed the standard sanke connector/spear. Let me know if you have any other Q's or want any other pics.

The MLT on the left started as the same keg as you've got.

valve-a-palooza!

Ive converted mine into a false bottom for the mlt (without the spear obviously). Cut a bunch of slits and drilled plenty of holes in it.