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I think it depends on the temp your holding the fermentor at. The colder the faster. Sometimes I'm not able to give the fermenter an ice bath so I let it chill overnight to settle the break out then rack off into another fermenter before pitching. Come morning it's settled pretty well but this...

I think people are just kicking around ideas. Some methods work better than others in different circumstances so its nice having a few tools in the bag.

I thought about doing this on my last Berliner since Ive been souring in a corny. Since your racking in near boiling would that steam purge the keg if you left the PRV cracked? Im trying to find more info on steam purging but not having good luck.

The yeast I pitched was kept in a walk in the entire time and next day mailed from the supplier when originally purchased. Just saying, if your pitching expired yeast at least be aware your rolling the dice.

Don't make that assumption! I screwed up 250L worth of beer for the first time in 3 years because of the yeast being expired. Didn't notice the brick was about a month expired until after I had pitched. What was supposed to be a cream ale came out tasting like a Hefeweizen with off flavors. Not...

So far nobody has mentioned how the stone fruit character compares to the Yorkshire strain. If I could get the same doughy fruity esters from a dry pitch I'd order a few bricks. Also for those that have a batch down with this stuff....how much krausen did you get? I know Yorkshire always blows...

It'll be a lot easier though you can use whatever DME you want. Bavarian DME is for weissbier so that's why I use it. Subbing all the water out like that your pretty much making wine or some sort of beer wine hybrid. I like to make my specialty ingredient additions on the cold side to taste...

You can always try a big ice bath. I pump my pool water through my IC which only gets me to about 90f. But that's when I'll rack to fermenter and keep the fermenter in a kettle full of ice water. You can get the temps crashed pretty low and quick this way. Then when I'm done chilling I use the...

What I'd recommend.... Go 50/50 barley/wheat, or somewhere in that ball park. Enough to get you around 3-4% abv. Mash around 152f to try and keep some residual sugar to carry over once it dries out and sours. You want it dry but I think between the tartness and high co2 vol having a bit more...

Nottingham in low 60s

Gotta agree. I've made 3 attempts at IPAs and I noticed zero difference in malt character. Malty styles are a very different story but I just think the balance is too far skewed with IPAs. Just my 2 cents.

While I respect what they've done I think the best thing for people to do is remove the PDF authors from the equation. Take a step back and just look at the information thats out there. These guys didn't come up with this hypothesis or these claims, a lot of it is based in the brewing literature...

Am I reading this right.... potential ingress of .2-.3 ppm per 6 months? If so and Im doing the math right, always questionable lol, that would give you about a little over 6 month shelf life if the beer ready for package is in the 25ppb range breweries shoot for. Someone feel free to correct me...

I think the tone of the paper gets things off on the wrong foot with people, myself being one of those people. LODO as a whole also seems to encompass a few concepts which I think creates some confusion. Part of it is keeping the beer below levels that set off all sorts of staling reactions...

I've been just using a Tbsp of each yeast/sugar. I bought a brick of bakers yeast so this was easier than weighing it out every time. IIRC weight comes to a little under 11g for yeast and a little over for sugar.

I don't know the answers but your real questions here are what are the kegs and bags actually made of and how permeable is that material? Also what do the bags look like before beer is packaged into it? Flattened/air vacuumed?

Not exactly, I'll lay it out. 1. Add all brewing water and sugar to cooler. Water can be room temp for this. 2. Add yeast and seal cooler. 3. When your ready, add the SMB and seal cooler back up for another 5 mins. Now the water is ready to transfer into the kettle to mash in. As...

Unless using a cooler as a pseudo HLT is out of the question everything else works for single vessel brewing. The system I brew on is basically a fancy electric BIAB system. I'm not trying to beat anyone over the head with this I'm just throwing out a process tweak I found to be easy and more...

I guess it depends what temp your looking to mash in at. I mash in around 90f, make ph adjustments, then ramp up. Since I'm treating the brewing water in a cooler I guess it's technically not single vessel but it's not like I'm having to heat another kettle either I'm working on a Braumeister...

I feel like I'm missing something so I have to ask.... is there a reason why you want to lower the grain into the kettle instead of putting the grain in first and bottom filling? I started doing it to lower O2 ingress but in all honesty its 1000x easier and LODO in mind or not its a permanent...