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My new center inlet, brass head, march pump has a 3/4" inlet (1/2" outlet) and I'd like to take advantage of that and get the full flow of my high volume pump during chilling and wort transfer and I have to pump uphill to the HLT where the Herms coil is so I want full full head capacity. Plus I...

Sorry, I'm in the process of buying a few things and the 5 message limit is screwing me. I'll PM you an address and phone and we can go from there. I'll actually be in bradenton this weekend. That may be closer for you than riverview which really is a drive from st pete which is where I assume...

Yeah, I don't blame you. You could buy 50ft for about that or not much more and coil it yourself and not have my ghetto fabulous one. I may have to sell it locally, craigslist here I come.

Yeah, it is pretty terrible but it does work. I bet I was drinking when I coiled it :drunk: Hey, you should see the jagged off-round hole in the top of my keggle. Now it's pretty ghetto! One day I'll clean up the edges and maybe even do some polishing with that angle grinder.

Well, shipping may be a problem. I looked at fedex, USPS, and greyhound (the bus). My best guess is it will squeeze in a box that is 2ft tall by 20" square. Fedex is $32 and Greyhound is about the same.

So I need to move up to larger tubing for my eherms system and plan on using my herms coil as a chiller as well so I no longer need my old immersion chiller. I'm selling this to raise money for the new rig. I'll ship but you pay shipping. Or pick it up local, I'm in Tampa. I'm thinking...

Fedex just dropped off my camco elements and Walker is right, they are incoloy (nickel and chromium), not SS. Good enough for drinking water then it is good enough for wort.

I'd like to put a couple led indicator lights in the control box I'm building. I'd like to source it locally (and cheap) from radio shack. I need a led on the DC line from my PID to my SSR to tell me when the PID is applying power to the elements. Then I think I'd also like a led on one or...

That's good advice but, me, being the broke and cheap a$#hole that I am, I can't justify that cost when a radio shack project box or harbor freight tool box is less than half the price. I also went with cheap metal toggle switches instead of the fancy turnkeys and lighted push buttons.

I just did a search on this last week before ordering my new SS ripp elements for my eherms rig. I didn't find much so I went SS because that's what most were doing. Some one did report the copper ones exploding/breaking spontaneously. The SS ones I found for about $20 which made them cheaper...

I would have racked it to another vessel before watering it down. Maybe add a half cup of corn sugar to promote some co2 production if I didn't have a co2 tank on hand. Still, let us know how the water/headspace approach works. It would be nice to know what works and what does not.

It is probably just fine. As others have stated, standard protocol in this situation is to rack the wort from under the mold. I scoop mold off sour cream and eat it (the sour cream) all the time. It's fine. It would be interesting to know if indeed the presence of oxygen allowed the mold to...

I would be very interested but am not sure how many I need just yet. Maybe 3 sets. I'm also not clear what you are describing. These are MIP on one end and the other end is the disconnect right? I mean if it is just a hose barb then a QD it ain't. Maybe a photo or link would help me visualize.

That's not too ghetto, you should see some of my equipment. I visited a brew pub in Destin or Panama City and they did pretty much what you are doing. Big vats with canvas tops that appeared to snap on over the top. Sorta looked like a big spa or small above ground pool. They claimed to have no...

That's so expensive. You could have a pid controlled system for that (plus a little labor on your part).

If you don't need or want a pid then just drill a hole in your kettle, buy a 1" lock nut with oring from bargain fittings and install the element in the kettle using a 2 gang outlet box. Put a 20 amp rated switch on one of the hot legs of the 220 circuit and you are good to go. The stainless...

It takes me less time than that (not much though) with 10 gal batches and 80 deg ground water. Have you tried recirculating, and using a prechiller or pumping ice water through it? Edit: that time was without much stirring.

It's odd, they have changed the website so that the marine pump is listed as a beer pump. I would be hesitant to use it for beer. Aside from the fact that it is dc powered it is also self priming which, I believe, means that it has a sump which would be most unsanitary.

Out of curiosity are you sealing these somehow or just putting the lid on?

If you've got carboys then buy a bucket - it's cheap. Try both. I use both routinely. I prefer glass for secondary. For primary it is anyone's game. Buckets are easier to clean but then there is that lid with the rubber oring which is something else to clean. Buckets don't break. You can see...