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After a lot of experiments - those are my main hops now (coincidentally) - I usually use Northern Brewer and Target for bitterness as they have been cheap this year. Cascade is definitely a favourite right now - but I've just started drinking my first Pils/EKG SMaSH and really impressed with...

I need to try Styrian Bobek next month I think - I've started doing the hop stand now (at 80Cish) it has made a noticeable difference over adding them at flameout. If I've got a beer like this and a Porter around - that does me just fine.

If I'm too short or something - I just go with it - beer might be a bit stronger but I prefer that to messing with it - and it's good to have a few strong brews around

Also are you using Protofloc or equiv in the boil so the big stuff falls out before syphoning to primary?

This sounds like a lot of sediment getting in - are you doing something around the syphon/bottling time that is shaking things up - or are you syphoning out trub to the bottling bin? In my first brews I was getting a lot - but that was because I was moving the primary to the kitchen before...

I did a couple of recipe kits originally but they really skimped on the hops and cost much much more than buying the separate ingredients With careful shopping you can stay very cheap on the ingredients and produce some really good beer - I buy the cheapest high alpha hops for bittering - and...

This is all I do - I have the big bags of Pils and MO - which I use diff quantities of depending on beer type - and then I have a bunch of 1KG bags of Vienna, Special III etc. I get that some people like to follow recipes exactly and hit the numbers - but I've got the 3 beer types - Porter...

Getting yeast cold just slows it down, getting it too hot can ruin the beer In my experience 63-65F is perfect - I have my ferment fridge set to that all the time which I use for first week - I brew Porters and IPAs For some beers you need a fruity taste which you can get from fermenting...

I'm sure it'll be fine - the concerns people have about air getting in are over stated imo. S-04 is a menace - I'd really not recommend it for beginners - it just seems really volatile and off tasting if it gets warm early on. I've started using M44 instead - it's slower and seems generally...

When you're on the first brew I think you tend to focus hard on progress and struggle with patience (I did anyway and I read it a lot on here) My view on yeast is that it's usually just a time thing - if you've got a very inactive batch (old or badly stored) it can take a long time to get...

I have a sack of Pils and a sack of MO in the house. All my brews use one or both. Initially I started with just MO but it is quite strong (malty) so I now use 100% MO for Porters, 30-60% MO for IPAs and 100% Pils for my very light beers. (when I say 100% I mean as base grain - I'll obv...

That looks fantastic - how much beet did you use 2.5lbs to 5 gallon? Really interested how this turns out - looks like something I'd drink - I bet it works well in a Porter too.

I'm finding Citra too flowery and overpowering now - I've had too many over hopped AIPAs (used to love them and they got me in to brewing - but liking more subtlety now) I have started using a lot more Cascade and really enjoying that so I'd say Cascade / Mosaic or just Cascade

I made something similar a month or so back - Pils + HH is a really really great combo I used a bit of Target or something to bitter and over bittered it - it's still a good brew - but I could have used 80% less bittering I'm going to do a Pils + HH (or Saaz) every 3rd brew now - at about 3.5%...

Just bottled my first brew using MJ West Coast M44 - wow - what a difference - this will be my go to yeast for IPAs now - S-04 just hasn't worked S-04 might not be a bad yeast but it's just not worked with my setup / temps - I had tried everything else water, mash temp, grain etc. and...

How long have you been fermenting? Before adding anything I would give it a little shake to disturb the cake and put it somewhere a little warmer (and not take any more samples for a week)

It's poss the reason I no longer brew NEIPA, hoppy beers etc. - because I bottle. The results are almost always underwhelming. But my Porters absolutely smash it - so I brew darks / old ale type recipes with Maris Otter or really light fizzy Pils. When I drink hop forward pints in great pubs...

You can get bubbles for a *long* time after the official ferment is complete I'm sat next to a couple of demis that have been going for 3+ weeks and even today one of them is popping a bubble every hour or so I don't brew NEIPAs so maybe ignore some of my earlier comments about 4 weeks on...

It was in ref to this: It sounds like a strong brew to start with - before tweaking it I'd recommend making the base recipe - then tweaking so you have a starting point - if you start tweaking with no base you'll not know if you're going forwards or backwards

From reading back you only put it in to primary 4 days ago? At 3 weeks in primary you might get a hint at what it will be like - but likely will taste undrinkable, at 4 will usually improve a bit - I normally bottle around then One week in bottle - it can be drinkable, two weeks usually very...