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I name beers once they’ve earned a medal or two and been in rotation for a year or so. Names are either from “inspiration” or a random Spotify song during the brew day. Stone Blue - American light lager and the name of a Foghat song EZ Action - Std American lager and a T. Rex song HopTruck -...

If you haven’t already, check out Home - Central Florida Home Brewers Association and Brewers Anonymous. Two Orlando clubs. It is a great way to learn and (in your case) possibly see various homebrew rigs in action before sinking a lot of money into it.

1809.1 + 5 gal “Just Add Tacos” International Amber Lager 1814.1

Or maybe a Bavarian ghost thinks I'm no longer worthy to fly their flag...

Grain absorption is usually 0.12 to 0.18 gallons of water per pound of grain. Grists with a lot of wheat and rye seem to land at the high end for me. I usually get 0.13 to 0.15 for all barley grists. Remember to factor in loss under a false bottom, if that is in use

I have a Bavarian flag hanging in my garage— A souvenir from a trip to Munich in 2018. It has hung there for almost two years. I was minding my own, brewing a Dortmunder today, and the very second it reached boil, a gust of wind pulled the flag off the wall. I had to run down the street to...

Someday I hope to be half the man you are!

+5 gallons Dortmunder Smeagol says 1,650 Gallonziz

My toilet’s clogged

I was skeptical too, but I’ve done this at least 20 times over the last 6-7 years with great success on American Light Lagers. One won an NHC Final medal. Perhaps the slow ramp to mashout completes the process.

Yep. 142* will ensure good attenuation, then some quality barley and judicious use of adjuncts will ensure good flavor. Details are fuzzy, but I recall one of the macros using a long rest in the 142-144 range. Maybe Bud Light. But if you do this and limit the adjuncts to 15-20% max (not 30+)...

My light lagers generally start at 1.044 to 1.050 and finish at 1.004 just by mashing in at 142* and holding for 75-90 mins. Usually w/o extra enzymes. Then I slowly direct fire to mashout over 20 minutes or so. This is with a blend of pilsner, 6-row and 15-20% rice. Enzymes can be used for a...

Both are excellent choices. For uniformity of fittings and look the Spike kettle might be the way to go. I’ve had two 15g G1 Blichmann kettles for 13-ish years. No complaints. Great kettles that still look almost new w/ a good buff after 300+ batches. I use one for a direct-fire mash w/ the...

I can’t vouch for what the big boys do, but some low mineral water, a grain bill of 85% Canadian or Idaho pilsner malt and 15% maize, with a big pinch of Liberty hops early and late kettle, fermented with WLP840 or 940 makes a helluva drinkable beer. And if it is a Coors-ish knockoff, so be it. 😁

I used a 12” bazooka tube in a 10g Home Depo cooler for a gazillion years and batches and it worked great. 70-75% eff with a single infusion mash. So a domed FB that covers even more of the surface should be just fine

Half-brewed a Munich Helles. Mashed and filled the kettle as usual. Heated wort to 200* and meanwhile cleaned the mash kettle. Turned off the BoilCoil once the wort reached temp and covered the kettle. Will do the boil early tomorrow morning. Had a window of time from 3-6pm today and no...

I brew beers that typically are good for 2-3 months or more in a spunded keg (because I dont kill kegs like I used to), taste good in any season and with a variety of foods. …and buy the occasional pint or sixer of something I “don’t 5 gallon like” but get a hankering for. Like a nice bracingly...

That’s what happens when you relax too much, dont worry, and have too much homebrew during your second Mr Beer kit. Or Shoulda gone LODO, dude!

Started w/ a mead, pale ale, and sake? Way to diversify! Good luck in your new fermenting adventures. Lots of good info and help on HBT!